Archive for September 12th, 2005

Fashion Week Notebook | Proenza Schouler

Key Takeaways: Trendwise, the big story from Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough is the idea of controlled volume, which showed up around cuffs on sleeves, on pockets, on oversized blouses, and at the waistlines of a number of almost tulip-shaped skirts. Though the duo is clearly talented, this season’s collection appeared to stray from their young target demographic. Several long, boxy jackets with contrast fabric detailing, for example, looked more appropriate for the mothers of their usual clientele. The gold fabric used for a few looks also came off as unflattering, due to a slight greenish tinge. Where the duo hit their stride was in their tailored-style garments: the empire waist dresses, tuxedo-style jackets, and in the final look of the collection, a particularly well-done trenchcoat.

Color Palette: Mainly neutrals: white, cream, shades of brown, from tan to chocolate. Gold also played a significant role in the collection, but the shade chosen was a bit greenish and ultimately unflattering.

Silhouettes: Empire waistlines, boxy jackets, tulip skirts, trenchcoats, embellished tuxedo looks. The duo’s signature collarless jackets and bra-top type dresses.

Accessories Report: Rope necklaces. A nod to the nautical theme from the last year?

What’s Wearable: Great blouses with controlled volume, flattering empire waist dresses, and many of the collection’s sportswear pieces, including the great blouses with controlled volume and the boxy coats.

What’s Not Wearable: Shapeless oversized dresses and the looks that were reminiscent of a (luxe) nightgown. Skirts that end at mid-calf are also unflattering on all but the longest legs. Some of the embellished jackets felt a little old and unflattering.

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Fashion Week Notebook | Ashleigh Verrier

Key Takeaways: Traces of the 1920s to the 1960s could be felt in Ashleigh Verrier’s debut New York Fashion Week collection. Especially well done were her ruched blouses and pencil skirts. Mixing masculine and feminine elements, Verrier added another dimension to the collection. A masculine women’s tuxedo shirt, for example, was paired with a feminine pencil skirt. In another look, a blouse and silk tank accompanied a masculine-tinged pair of pinstriped pants. All in all, Verrier’s debut collection was a beautifully done stroll down fashion’s memory lane.

Color Palette: Cream and white, various shades of blue, orange, green, and purple.

Silhouettes: Body-hugging blouses and pencil skirts, belted looks, shift dresses, slipdresses, and shirtdresses that felt like modernized versions of 1950s Americana.

What’s Wearable: Most of the collection. In particular, we Love Verrier’s camel coat with the rounded Peter Pan collar. Very Audrey Hepburn in the mid 1960s.

What’s Not Wearable: Some of the pencil skirts may be a bit severe, and the tuxedo shirt struck us as on the theatrical side.

What Makes Verrier Special: Her unique juxtapositions of masculine and feminine items.

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Fashion Week Notebook | Diane Von Furstenberg

Key Takeaways: Diane von Furstenberg deftly combined colors and patterns in her flirty, pretty, and sometimes even preppy collection for Spring 2006. Geometric and botanical patterns were balanced in a set of well-styled outfits that ranged from black and white to tropical colored. Flirty sundresses, sportswear separates (loved her cardigan in green), and slinky evening dresses—DVF showed them all. We applaud this collection not only for its fresh feeling, but also for its wearability.

Color Palette: A number of looks were styled in black and white. Others combined tropical colors: Yellow, Brown, Coral, and Green. Some interesting color combinations: Coral + White, Coral + Green, Yellow + Brown.

Silhouettes: Full, swinging skirts and voluminous tulip skirt shapes; Trenchcoats; A-line and empire waist styles; Fitted bodices. Both draped and tailored looks.

Accessories Report: Printed tote bags worn under the arm.

What’s Wearable: Just about everything—especially the flirty sundresses.

What’s Not Wearable: Voluminous tulip skirt shapes on dresses, some of the more shapeless dresses (rather unflattering on anything other than a model’s figure).

Our Favorite Dress: We love how this dress elegantly bridges the gap between the embellishment of seasons past with the minimalism of fashions to come.

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Fashion Week Notebook | Luca Luca

Key Takeaways: Luca Orlandi embraced print and embellishment for his Caribbean-inspired collection, perhaps too much. With a few of the looks, the mixing and matching of patterns was overwhelming. However, Orlandi also showed a number of 60s inspired (at least in terms of silhouette) sundresses that seemed much more wearable.

Color Palette: White, beige, and brown along with bursts of color: yellows, greens, reds, purples, blues, oranges, etc. Bright colors, reminiscent of a tropical vacation.

Silhouettes: Voluminous skirts and pants, plunging necklines, tulip skirts (seen in previous Luca Luca collections), boxy jackets, sweaters with pushed up sleeves, rounded Peter Pan collars, sweet sundresses, and an emphasis on a higher waistline.

Accessories Report: More belts (at the natural waistline), and chunky necklaces and oversized bags. Not much new here.

What’s Wearable: Pretty sundresses in innocent 1960s shapes.

What’s Not Wearable: Multiple prints in the same outfit. Even the most seasoned of designers have trouble balancing prints in a single look. Don’t try this one at home!

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Fashion Week Notebook | Doo Ri

Key Takeaways: Ladylike separates and dresses in neutral colors. Doo Ri Chung mixed materials, pairing shimmery with matte, and brought structured and drapey silhouettes into harmony. Our take? It’s not the kind of collection that will Wow fashion editors. However, we loved it for it’s unashamed wearability.

Color Palette: Neutral. Lots of Gold, Tan, Blush and White.

Silhouettes: Pencil-thin skirts, Wide-legged pants, Empire waistlines, Trapeze dresses, Trenchcoats.

What’s Wearable: Most everything. We Loved Doo Ri’s dresses, in particular.

What’s Not Wearable: Some of the pieces, though tame for the runway, were still too voluminous for streetwear. Also, beware of silk charmeuse and other shiny fabrics, as they accentuate any bulges and make the wearer look larger.

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