Fashion Week Notebook | Proenza Schouler

September 12th, 2005

Key Takeaways: Trendwise, the big story from Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough is the idea of controlled volume, which showed up around cuffs on sleeves, on pockets, on oversized blouses, and at the waistlines of a number of almost tulip-shaped skirts. Though the duo is clearly talented, this season’s collection appeared to stray from their young target demographic. Several long, boxy jackets with contrast fabric detailing, for example, looked more appropriate for the mothers of their usual clientele. The gold fabric used for a few looks also came off as unflattering, due to a slight greenish tinge. Where the duo hit their stride was in their tailored-style garments: the empire waist dresses, tuxedo-style jackets, and in the final look of the collection, a particularly well-done trenchcoat.

Color Palette: Mainly neutrals: white, cream, shades of brown, from tan to chocolate. Gold also played a significant role in the collection, but the shade chosen was a bit greenish and ultimately unflattering.

Silhouettes: Empire waistlines, boxy jackets, tulip skirts, trenchcoats, embellished tuxedo looks. The duo’s signature collarless jackets and bra-top type dresses.

Accessories Report: Rope necklaces. A nod to the nautical theme from the last year?

What’s Wearable: Great blouses with controlled volume, flattering empire waist dresses, and many of the collection’s sportswear pieces, including the great blouses with controlled volume and the boxy coats.

What’s Not Wearable: Shapeless oversized dresses and the looks that were reminiscent of a (luxe) nightgown. Skirts that end at mid-calf are also unflattering on all but the longest legs. Some of the embellished jackets felt a little old and unflattering.

Entry Filed under: Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend, Women

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