Archive for September 13th, 2005

Fashion Week Notebook | Project Alabama

Key Takeaways: Project Alabama started the show with a series of fitted black and navy outfits that mesh with fashion’s current trend towards minimalism. However, the show turned more colorful with geometric and botanical prints on the same basic silhouette: fitted on top, full on bottom. Visually, the prints gave an ethnic feeling to the collection, a trend that’s somewhat tired after a couple of seasons on the runway.

Color Palette: Black and Navy, with additions of Yellow, White, and Red.

Silhouettes: A slim waistline, scoop necklines, and full skirts. Belted looks.

What’s Wearable: The fitted bodices and full skirts are generally flattering. Project Alabama’s minimalist black dresses are especially on-trend.

What’s Not Wearable: Like at Luca Luca, multiple loud prints in the same outfit.

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Fashion Week Notebook | Oscar de la Renta

Key Takeaways: Oscar de la Renta played with the idea of controlled volume. Volume could be found either on a top or bottom, but generally not both. This volume made itself manifest through design details like blousy sleeves, a generous fit around the torso, peplums, and ruffles on skirts.

Trendwise, Oscar de la Renta made statements around a few different areas: horizontal lines and design details, oversized bows, animal prints, boxy jackets, and the return of long jackets. He also made a somewhat awkward attempt to mix the uber-casual with the formal, pairing an embellished logo t-shirt with a ball-worthy elegant skirt. Interesting idea, but the execution felt lacking somehow.

Color Palette: Natural and neutral, for the most part. Browns, beiges, and creams were spruced up with greens, oranges, reds, and blues.

Silhouettes: The main idea here was controlled volume: either the top or the bottom of a look was volumized. A fitted halter top, for example, with a pair of high-waisted wide legged pants. Beyond controlled volume, again, we’re seeing an emphasis on a higher waistline. Long jackets also made a comeback, as did boxy jackets. The peasant blouses and tiered skirts looked fresher a couple seasons back.

Accessories Report: Tote bags, scarves with textural interest, clutches, ladylike gloves, chunky necklaces with varying strands of colors and sizes.

What’s Wearable: Most everything. We especially liked the high-waisted pants and skirts for the illusion of longer legs.

What’s Not Wearable: Oversized bows. Just say no. The t-shirt with a ball gown skirt is also one of those “don’t try this at home” ideas—leave this look to the stylists.

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Fashion Week Notebook | Marc Jacobs

Key Takeaways: Marc Jacobs’ collections are more about directionality of fashion trends rather than wearability, and this collection was no exception. Among the fresher trends Jacobs is espousing: controlled volume, emphasis on the waist, a higher waistline, a movement away from bodyhugging fashions, and a return to minimalism. Of particular interest, trendwise, is Jacobs’ almost origami-like fabric folding. Continuing trends from prior seasons include preppy schoolgirl fashion, tiered styles, and an emphasis on gold and shimmer.

Color Palette: Minimalist and natural. Lots of black, shades of brown and beige, yellow, white, navy, and green.

Silhouettes: Controlled volume, draped dresses, higher waistlines, wide-legged bottoms, oversized jackets and sweaters.

Accessories Report: Ladylike gloves, belted looks, thin bags, and knee-high stockings paired with skirts.

What’s Wearable: Long jackets (for the shortwaisted), wide-legged pants, oversized sweaters, draped dresses, and the slight A-line skirts (almost universally flattering).

What’s Not Wearable: Shapeless dresses, extremely oversized shorts. Some of the looks were styled more for directionality than wearability—steer clear of exaggerated shapes.

1 comment September 13th, 2005

Fashion Week Notebook | Carolina Herrera

Key Takeaways: Carolina Herrera embraced embellishment (through print and accessories) and, to a lesser extent, the minimalism towards which fashion is trending. We like the exaggerated scoop neck on her vests, and we feel that she’s perfectly on trend with her short shorts, higher waisted styles, and overall emphasis on the waistline.

Color Palette: Black and white prints, shades of brown and tan, pink, and baby blue.

Silhouettes: Low cut vests shown over tailored shirts, short shorts, A-line and fitted skirts, high-waisted and empire styles.

Accessories Report: Square shaped oversized sunglasses, belts, chunky necklaces. Nothing new here.

What’s Wearable: Most everything, especially the vest over tailored shirt look, the flirty sundresses with waist-emphasis, and the floaty evening gowns.

What’s Not Wearable: Oversized bows. They’re too clownish. Didn’t like them as a little girl, don’t like them now. Extreme dropped waistlines: fitted dresses that hug the body until the hips and then flare out don’t flatter even model-shaped bodies.

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