Archive for September 14th, 2005

Fashion Week Notebook | Narciso Rodriguez

Key Takeaways: Rodriguez echoed the silhouettes of past collections, though the idea of controlled volume still appeared somewhat fresh in the larger context of fashion week. Shapes were architectural, with arcs and cutouts, as in past seasons. We saw seamed suits, less strict than ones from the past. However, Rodriguez is clearly straying from his forte—the sexy, architectural, and precisely tailored garments that propelled him to fame.

Rodriguez’s menswear collection launched this season. Filled with minimalist, classic pieces in mainly black and white, it largely echoed the sensibilities of his current womenswear collection.

Color Palette: Minimal and neutral. Black, white, silver, violet, and brown.

Silhouettes: Skirts with a length a little below the knee. High (and empire) waistlines. Controlled volume: tight bodices, fuller skirts. Architectural shapes, arcs, and cutouts.

Accessories Report: Low wedge sandals.

What’s Wearable: Still love the architectural feel of Rodriguez’s designs. What we love about Narciso Rodriguez is the inherent wearability of his minimalist designs. As usual, the collection was all wearable, and we’ll no doubt be seeing these designs on celebrities come spring.

What’s Not Wearable: Nothing.

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Fashion Week Notebook | Behnaz Sarafpour

Key Takeaways: Sarafpour’s collection was a study in contrasts: black with white, structured with deconstructed, dressy with casual.

Color Palette: Almost exclusively black-and-white, as well as some neutrals and animal prints.

Silhouettes: Tons of ruffles, tiered column dresses, pleated, wide-leg culottes, oversized pockets, shift dresses, oversized bows (also seen at Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta).

Accessories Report: Sarafpour’s handbag collection made its debut this season. While few were on display, we caught glimpses of a grey wool clutch and a black-and-white satchel with oversized bow ornaments.

What’s Wearable: Wrap trench coats in sateen and elegant, floaty dresses with tiered ruffles.

What’s Not Wearable: Fussy pairings such as an ivory lace collar worn with a cotton tank and a long, tiered, ruffled skirt. Clean lines work much better.

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Mid-Fashion Week Trend Report

Since we’re over halfway through New York Fashion Week’s Spring 2006 collections, we thought we’d give you a quick recap of the trends we’ve been noticing.

Overarching Trends

  • Return to Minimalism
  • Age of Innocence: Youthful fashions from a simpler time
  • Neutral, natural colors: Black, white, shades of brown and beige

Garment Detailing

  • Hardware & Fastenings: Buttons, zippers, snaps, etc.
  • Peter Pan collars
  • Bows
  • Abundance of fabric prints & multi-print combinations


  • Controlled volume
  • Emphasis on waist
  • Higher waistlines, at natural waist or above


  • Shorts: Short shorts, knee-length shorts, and ankle styles abound
  • Trenchcoats
  • Tulip skirts
  • Boxy jackets
  • Long jackets
  • Double breasted styles
  • Wide legged pants
  • Full skirts
  • Vests


  • Belts!
  • Slip-on shoes
  • Across-the-body bags
  • Fedoras
  • Caps
  • Ladylike gloves
  • Dogtag necklaces

We’ll flesh out these ideas after the Craziness that is Fashion Week is over!

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Fashion Week Notebook | Marc by Marc Jacobs

Key Takeaways: Layering is Hot. Marc Jacobs facilitated the layering process via foundation bodysuits upon which you can layer more clothing. Interesting combinations included a voluminous short dress over a jumpsuit, with a scarf tie, and a bustier over a tee.

We also noted Marc Jacobs’ fascination with fastenings. Buttons, ties, zippers, buckles, suspenders—you name it, this collection has it.

Color Palette: Muted neutrals with touches of blue, pink, purple, coral, yellow, and green.

Silhouettes: Bodysuits and knit foundation garments. Layering volume and shape upon body-hugging garments.

Accessories Report:

  • Hats and caps—from Civil War style hats to Peter Pan style hats to newsboy caps, they’re on Marc Jacobs’ radar.
  • Across-the-body bags also hit it big, along with a fanny pack worn diagonally across the back.
  • Socks covering the ankle and lower leg, as well as arm warmers.
  • In keeping with the season’s emphasis on the waistline, belts were featured prominently as well.
  • Also interesting: the next big jewelry trend just may be the multiple dogtag look. Dogtags have been on the radar for awhile, and Marc Jacobs’ dogtag collage necklace just may be the next step in the evolution of the trend.

What’s Wearable:
The layering concept, but less extreme. We also appreciate the focus on fastenings, since we’re big fans of hardware.

What’s Not Wearable: Bodysuits, by themselves. Leotards for anything other than exercise. The suspenders as a halter tie look, unless you’re feeling avant garde.

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