Archive for September 23rd, 2005

Fashion Week Notebook | Derek Lam

Key Takeaways: While Lam is considered one of fashion’s fastest-rising stars, we were disappointed with this boring collection. We expected to see something new and exciting, and what we got was a lot of childlike dresses in dowdy shapes.

Color Palette: Lam’s collection was focused on white, with black and neutrals as supporting colors.

Silhouettes: Babydoll dresses and shift dresses. We didn’t know what to think about the Overgrown-Easter-Sunday-Dress look.

Accessories Report: Our favorite accessory was the fresh-faced makeup seen on Lam’s runway models. They possessed a dewy, youthful look.

What’s Wearable: Lam’s fortuny pleasts–they were one of the few highlights of this collection.

What’s Not Wearable: Babydoll dresses. We don’t want to revisit the early nineties.

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Fashion Week Notebook | Emporio Armani Menswear

Key Takeaways: For his Emporio Armani collection, Giorgio moved into slightly feminine territory with gauzy scarves and see-through shirts, along with deep-v tunics and wrap shirts. Interesting on the runway, but these items feel more aesthetic than commercial.

Color Palette: Along with beige, white, brown, grey, and black, the collection featured a purple-tinged blue, purple-tinged grey, as well as bits of purple and orange.

Silhouettes: Loosely fitted shapes. Mostly straight-legged pants and shorts, with close-fitting tops. Jackets and blazers added to the slight looseness of fit.

Accessories Report: Skinny ties, gauzy scarves, sunglasses with a thick nose bridge, and dogtag-inspired necklaces. Right on trend, Armani played up the importance of the waist with belts and waistline detailing on pants.

What’s Wearable: Blazers with slightly more cropped sleeves, a nod to geek chic. Utility inspired jackets, drawstring pants, and the on-trend double-breasted jackets.

What’s Not Wearable: See-through shirts, wrap shirts, and unstructured, drapey pants (unless they’re for sleepwear).

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Fashion Week Notebook | Gucci Menswear

Key Takeaways: Gucci went prep-school chic for Spring 2006. Cardigans, pullovers, and blazers, all far far away from the playboy image created by Tom Ford.

Color Palette: Black, white and cream dominated the collection. Shades of grey, beige, and touches of red accompanied these base neutrals.

Silhouettes: Tailored, fitted silhouettes. Layering played a key role in this collection, with multiple tops being layered over one another. Key items included pullovers, cardigans, double breasted blazers, sport shirts and drapey slacks.

Accessories Report: Attack of the Man Tote. Belts were also big with this collection, a nod to this season’s emphasis on the waistline. Suitcase trunks were reminiscent of old-school travel.

What’s Wearable: Just about everything. The preppy cardigans and pullovers from Fall 05 will still be stylish come spring, albeit in lighter colors.

What’s Not Wearable: The Man Tank Top (unless you’re an Italian gangster). The Man Tote was too feminine for the average male.

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