Fashion Week Notebook | James Coviello

February 8th, 2006

James Coviello Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways:  The sisters of “Little Women” gone wild – that’s the essence of Mr. Coviello’s Fall 2006 collection.  As a co-worker of the famous Anna Sui, Coviello’s knack for the vintage focuses on the aspects of the sophisticated bohemian rather than the naïve school girl. 

Color Palette:  A prismatic bolt of browns take center stage, while supporting shades include hints of warm blues, greens, pinks and maroons.

Silhouettes:  A combination of fitted and relaxed is shown in the various pieces.  For the most part, fitted tops lead down to relaxed, draping slacks.  Asian influenced tailoring is used nicely, and knee-length skirts give a pleasant shape to the troublesome female hip zone.  The numerous mutated slip dresses with flowy capped sleeves and sporadic ruffles aren’t brand-spankin’ new, but the delicate material used gives an applauded feminine shape.

Accessories Report:  Leather shoulder purses suit the collection very well, while wispy scarves give elongated necks appreciative texture.  As always, Coviello adds his own personal touch of chic corsages that are beautifully urban rather than trendy soccer mom.

What’s Wearable: Each piece of Coviello outerwear (blazers, boleros and coats) promises to be the concept of many copycats out there. The multi-colored quilted cardigan is most appealing. The contrast of hard tweeds with sweet cascading fabrics is feminine with a hard professional edge, and the puffy sleeves are done in a tasteful way that makes them look wearable.  The prints he uses are also great standing alone – they are both understated and stylish.

What’s Not Wearable: Mixing different types of patterns is a good trend, but some of the pieces go a little bit overboard.  It’s no question that Coviello can do wonders with vintage style.  Even so, some of his vintage-inspired clothing looks a little bit too old for general fashionista audiences. There was one patterned dress in particular that was unflattering and it looked like a table cloth/second hand house dress.

Entry Filed under: Runway Reviews, Runway to Reality, Trend, Women

3 Comments Add your own

  • 1. Almost Girl » Blog &hellip  |  February 9th, 2006 at 10:32 am

    [...] More trends from New York Fashionweek, courtesy of Omiru: oversized collars, short sleeved dresses, asymmetry, powerful supa’working woman suits, and fur fur everywhere. Get the goods on Narciso Rodriguez, Marc Jacobs, Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, Monique Lhuillier, Luella Bartley, Betsey Johnson, BCBG, Cynthia Steffe, James Coviello, Willow, Zang Toi, and Lacoste. [...]

  • 2. Omiru.com: Style for All&hellip  |  February 14th, 2006 at 8:08 am

    [...] February 14th, 2006 For your reading convenience, we’ve split the trends up into categories: Silhouette, Detailing, Garment Classifications, and Accessories.  Enjoy!SILHOUETTEWaist Emphasis: Much like Spring 06, the focal point is on the waist.It’d be easier to list the designers that Didn’t follow this one. High Waisted Styles: Long-waisted women everywhere celebrate with a trip to the mall!Calvin Klein, Zac Posen, Alice RoiPowerful Working Woman: We’re just glad these pieces don’t have the 80s shoulderpads.Carolina Herrera, Zang Toi, Richard ChaiDresses over Long Sleeved Shirts: Reminds us of Marc Jacobs’ Mod collection a few years back.  Anyone else thinking this?Proenza Schouler, WillowVoluminous Sleeves: Good for visual interest, but it can get theatrical.  Aim for small puffs rather than Jerry Seinfeld’s puffy shirt.Carolina Herrera, Diane von Furstenberg, Three As Four3/4 Sleeve Styles: Add 3/4 length styles here, and we’ve got Uber-Cropped jackets.Proenza Schouler, Carolina HerreraDETAILINGOversized Collars: Oversized jacket detailing in its most visible form.Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, Willow, Richard ChaiTuxedo Style Detailing: I wonder if this was inspired by March of the Penguins…Monique Lhuillier, Oscar de la Renta, Behnaz SarafpourFur Fur Everywhere: Let’s just say that PETA isn’t going to be happy.Carolina Herrera, Trovata, Chado Ralph Rucci, J MendelJapan, anyone?: Can we say Memoirs of a Geisha?  Let’s just hope anime-style clothing isn’t in the pipeline.J Mendel, James Coviello, Nanette Lepore, BCBGRuffles: There’s just something so innocent and feminine about these ruffles.  Doo Ri, Three As Four, Oscar de La RentaGrecian Draping: So Very Madame Grès.Proenza Schouler, Derek LamSheer over Solids: When done well, it can be great…but if not, it can be a little "Date Night with Barbie."Calvin Klein, Vera Wang, Donna KaranShearling: Somehow we keep thinking of those sheepskin car seat covers.Oscar de la Renta, Lacoste, SweetfacePenchant for Plaid: Reminds us of Trey from Sex and the City…only without the kilts.Trovata, Zang Toi, Behnaz SarafpourChevron Detailing: When you see plaid, you know that chevrons aren’t far behind…Vera Wang, Calvin KleinGARMENT CLASSIFICATIONSCapes and Capelets: Like we said, it’s The Poncho, Part II.Derek Lam, Monique Lhuillier, Narciso Rodriguez, Tuleh, Marc by Marc JacobsBubble Skirts: As long as they don’t invite Bubble Boy comparisons, we’re OK with them.  Short girls beware though, as they’ll throw off your proportions..Doo Ri, Twinkle, United Bamboo, Calvin KleinVests: Time to raid the Wall of Vests at H&M!Tomer, Twinkle, Diane von FurstenbergSweaterdresses: The ultimate in comfort + style.BCBG, Lacoste, Behnaz Sarafpour, Y-3, Michael KorsShort Sleeved Dresses: Maybe skin isn’t in?Oscar de la Renta, Narciso Rodriguez, Carolina HerreraBoatneck Styles: Perfectly elegant and a way to show off a long neck (or make your neck look longer, as it may be).Trovata, Rachel Comey, Carmen Marc ValvoHooded Trenchcoats: Why would you wear a regular trenchcoat when you could get one with a hood? Lacoste, Three As FourToggle Coats: Can’t say how much we LOVE the toggle coat!Cloak, TrovataACCESSORIESSmall and Square Sunglasses: Out with the bug eyes, in with sleek, technochic style.Carolina Herrera, BCBG, Luella Bartley, Proenza SchoulerNerd Glasses for Men: These will go Perfectly with your "Roses are Red, Violets are Blue, All My Base Are Belong to You" T-shirt.Trovata, LacosteLong (up to Elbow-Length) Gloves: This is the Huge accessories trend.Badgley Mischka, Doo Ri, Richard Chai, Nicole MillerShort Gloves: First, it was Marvel vs. Capcom.  Now, it’s Short Glove vs. Long Glove.  We’ll hedge our bets here, but we always like to support the underdog.Derek Lam, Proenza SchoulerHandmade Looking Scarves: Straight from Grandma’s knitting club.Tomer, John Bartlett, TwinkleLong Scarves: Maybe not so functional, but oh-so-chic!Marc by Marc Jacobs, Carmen Marc Valvo, Calvin KleinChain Handles on Bags: The Hottest New Bag Trend.Heatherette, Narciso Rodriguez, Luella Bartley, Derek LamLeggings & Tights: Great for layering.Rachel Comey, Twinkle, Yigal Azrouel, Trovata [...]

  • 3. Omiru.com: Style for All&hellip  |  February 14th, 2006 at 4:05 pm

    [...] Designers have always found inspiration in the most unique things: nature, history, obscure inanimate objects, music – but one of the most prolific muses in the fashion is the silver screen.  In an odd, coincidental relationship, many of the movies that we see today serve as a launch pad for what we will see on the runway at fashion week or what the “next big thing” will be for the trendy urban hipsters all across the state (and maybe even the world).  If this sounds a bit far fetched, let’s flash back to the inspiring cinematic styles of the past.Remember those days of legwarmers and fashionable aerobic attire (circa 1983)?  This phenomenon, which can now be seen as a faux pas, can largely be accredited to the sexy stripper-turned-ballerina 80s classic, Flashdance.  As soon as Jennifer Beals strutted her stuff in off-the-shoulder sweatshirts and red heels, thousands of teenage girls made sure they had a considerable back stock of all the clothing needed to do a sweltering workout routine to “Maniac.” Traveling further back into time brings us to 1977 with Woody Allen’s Annie Hall.  The masculine, yet cutesy, Chaplin-esque tailored suits and derbies adorned by Diane Keaton were soon echoed by women who fed on the meat of late 70’s pop culture. More recently, we have been seeing styles on screen woven into the chic matrix of modern fashion.  When Shrek came out, green was the new black.  And not too long after that spotty rendition of the Trojan War came out (a.k.a. Troy), Greek-styled sandals were flip-floppin’ on the hip streets of metropolitan cities.Photos courtesy of NY Metro and Comingsoon.netThis trend theory is even evident in the most recent runway shows at Olympus Fashion Week.  Designers like James Coviello, Tuleh, J Mendel, Nanette Lepore and BCBG – all utilized some sort of Japanese influence a la Memoirs of a Geisha.  Even before fashion week, top designers Diane von Furstenberg and Stella McCartney stayed one step ahead of the game by creating some suitable kimono tops – take a look at them in this post.Based on this ongoing fashion forecast, it’s only inevitable that the romantic western look of “Brokeback Mountain” will imprint its Oscar nominated claws into the style industry.  More than that, the summer may bring sleek X-looks (X-men 3) or even have a color palette of red, yellow and blue (Superman Returns.)  Although this can happen, I’m not too sure the world is ready for haute couture by means of superhero movies. [...]

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