Archive for February 8th, 2006

Fashion Week Notebook | Monique Lhuillier

Monique Lhuillier 

Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Key trends in Monique Lhuillier’s day-to-evening collection included (1) capes and capelets, (2) bell (and other voluminous) sleeves, (3) the Bubble silhouette, (4) higher waistlines, (5) oversized collars,  (6) waistline emphasis, (7) oversized fabric brooches, (8) tuxedo-style detailing, and (10) fur.

Color Palette:  Black, grey, turquoise, sky blue, and greyed out shades of rose and yellow-green.

Silhouettes:  Lhuillier’s silhouettes tended to be either (1) big over small, or (2) small over big.  Either way, they balanced out the body nicely (at least on a model’s figure).  Particularly oversized items included sleeves, collars, capes, and bubble skirt silhouettes.

Accessories Report: The ubiquitous long gloove and an oversized fabric brooch.

What’s Wearable: A black cocktail dress with poufy ruffles caught our eye, as did a grey double breasted coat in a trapeze shape.  Both daywear and eveningwear were highly wearable in this collection.

What’s Not Wearable: The heavily oversized brocade coat with 3/4 sleeves would be better left on the runway.

1 comment February 8th, 2006

Fashion Week Notebook | Narciso Rodriguez

Narciso Rodriguez Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways:  In the past three seasons, Narciso Rodriguez has been loosening up his silhouette.  Even though fashion is heading towards the more voluminous, we wish that Rodriguez would stay true to his roots and give us more of the svelte, understated style that earned him the praise of the CDFA in the first place.  For women, key trends are: (1) short sleeved dresses, (2) bubble shaped skirts, and (3) colorblocking.  For men, the key trends are: (1) the Three Button Suit, (2) narrow ties, (3) knee length shorts, and (4) short sleeved sweaters.

Color Palette:  Black and white, with shades of cream, peach, and bluish grey.

Silhouettes: Not the classic Rodriguez "fits like a glove" silhouette–even the fitted items were worn looser.  We also saw capes, short sleeved dresses (a new trend?), and slightly bubble-shaped and flared skirts for women.  For men, we saw slim cut three-button suits, narrow ties, knee length shorts (paired with a button down shirt, tie, and jacket!), 3/4 length coats, and short sleeved and sleeveless sweaters.

Accessories Report:  Structured handbags, bags with chain handles, capes, and colorblocked knee-high boots.

What’s Wearable: Most everything shown, both for men and women, is wearable, though we would appreciate a more structured fit to the clothing.

What’s Not Wearable:
Shiny vinyl-type fabrics don’t generally translate well off the runway.  We also won’t be wearing Rodriguez’s long sleeved dress with a center front lower torso vertical cutout.  And because of the generous cut, some of the dresses ended up looking matronly.  

1 comment February 8th, 2006

Fashion Week Notebook | BCBG


Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: A major turtleneck comeback is in the works. For one, BCBG has elongated the traditional turtleneck into a slimming mini dress. Turtlenecks were also layered beneath dresses, saying goodbye to the bare décolleté. Knee-length boots are old news, but this collection saw knee-length tights peeping out from under the boots. This BCBG girl is less sophisticated and more medieval and carefree. Tres innovative!

Color Palette: Black, teal, blue, rustic orange, purple, brown, mustard yellow, khaki, and grey.

Silhouettes: Things are pretty loose around here: Chiffon dresses, puffy shorts, knit jackets, cropped cardigans. The turtleneck dresses are the exception to this rule because of their stretchy nature.

Accessories Report: Knit beanies are a must; almost every outfit in the collection has a matching one. White and black square and tiny glasses (looked more like reading glasses than shades) were also prevalent. An occasional mid-size handbag with a chain-link strap was seen. And the latest trend brought back from the Clueless era: knee highs.

What’s Wearable: The turtleneck dresses should definitely be sported with a pair of tights, especially on a rainy day. Many of the fancier dresses are quite practical as well.

What’s Not Wearable: If you choose to work the knee highs under the boots, you take the risk of looking like an agricultural farmer. One kimono-like jacket with wide sleeves is quite unflattering, even on a stick skinny model. Finally, one fancy gold dress with a turtleneck underneath looks more like a walking lampshade than a dress.

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Fashion Week Notebook | Cynthia Steffe

Cynthia Steffe

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Knit sweaters, knee highs, and heavy scarves worn like neck braces dominated this collection. Although feminine and girly touches existed, only a really confident woman could pull off these clothes with great ease.

Color Palette: Black, off-white, neutrals, pink, grey, brown, grayish blue, and olive green.

Silhouettes: Steffe riffed on some common fashion week themes: bubble skirts, flowy dresses, and knit jackets.

Accessories Report: Thin belts worn at the waist, scarves worn like neck braces, knee high stockings, t-strap heels, and once again, the ubiquitous long leather gloves.

What’s Wearable: Many of the pieces in this collection are wearable, but like we stated in other collections, there needs to be a bit of modification. A knit short-sleeve jacket paired with a knee-length khaki skirt is doable without the black knee highs.

What’s Not Wearable: The knee high comeback may not translate as well on the streets as it did on the big screen in “Clueless.”

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Fashion Week Notebook | James Coviello

James Coviello Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways:  The sisters of “Little Women” gone wild – that’s the essence of Mr. Coviello’s Fall 2006 collection.  As a co-worker of the famous Anna Sui, Coviello’s knack for the vintage focuses on the aspects of the sophisticated bohemian rather than the naïve school girl. 

Color Palette:  A prismatic bolt of browns take center stage, while supporting shades include hints of warm blues, greens, pinks and maroons.

Silhouettes:  A combination of fitted and relaxed is shown in the various pieces.  For the most part, fitted tops lead down to relaxed, draping slacks.  Asian influenced tailoring is used nicely, and knee-length skirts give a pleasant shape to the troublesome female hip zone.  The numerous mutated slip dresses with flowy capped sleeves and sporadic ruffles aren’t brand-spankin’ new, but the delicate material used gives an applauded feminine shape.

Accessories Report:  Leather shoulder purses suit the collection very well, while wispy scarves give elongated necks appreciative texture.  As always, Coviello adds his own personal touch of chic corsages that are beautifully urban rather than trendy soccer mom.

What’s Wearable: Each piece of Coviello outerwear (blazers, boleros and coats) promises to be the concept of many copycats out there. The multi-colored quilted cardigan is most appealing. The contrast of hard tweeds with sweet cascading fabrics is feminine with a hard professional edge, and the puffy sleeves are done in a tasteful way that makes them look wearable.  The prints he uses are also great standing alone – they are both understated and stylish.

What’s Not Wearable: Mixing different types of patterns is a good trend, but some of the pieces go a little bit overboard.  It’s no question that Coviello can do wonders with vintage style.  Even so, some of his vintage-inspired clothing looks a little bit too old for general fashionista audiences. There was one patterned dress in particular that was unflattering and it looked like a table cloth/second hand house dress.

3 comments February 8th, 2006

Fashion Week Notebook | Betsey Johnson

Betsey Johnson

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Tights were a lot sheerer, dresses a lot shorter, and the entire collection a bit more grown up than usual Betsey Johnson. Some aspects of the 80’s were revived with sweetheart cuts, humongous shiny bows, and puffy short sleeves. Although this new Betsey Johnson girl still has a bit of edge and spunk, she’s outgrown cartwheels. (Of course, Betsey will always do cartwheels…but then again she gets away with doing more than anyone her age).

Color Palette: Mostly black with hints of gold, navy blue, off-white, grey, lime green, pink, royal blue, green, purple, red, teal, and yellow.

Silhouettes: There was a lot of short, leg-revealing dresses, but they were by no means tight. Many sweetheart (Hello 1985!) and v-neck cuts showed up, as well as some babydoll dresses.

Accessories Report: We saw a few handbags with colorful embellishments floating around. Shoes were mainly pointy ankle boots and open-toed sandals. Occasionally, we saw a thick studded belt and a thin silk neck tie.

What’s Wearable: Some dresses are appropriate to wear at a fancy soiree, but they must be paired with tights as they are so short. Various skirts suits and jackets are also wearable.

What’s Not Wearable: It’s better for everyone if the ‘80s stuff stays in the closet. One dress with cutouts in the stomach area oozed less class and more trash.

1 comment February 8th, 2006

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