Archive for February 10th, 2006

Fashion Week Notebook | Custo Barcelona

Custo Barcelona Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways:  Brothers Custo and David Dalmau showed a collection of back alley fashions suitable for rebellious hipsters raised with proper etiquette.  As expected, layering is in, and the hearty use of fur as an embellishment adds a bit of maturity to a vibrantly youthful collection.

Color Palette:  Basic blacks, grays and browns (both light and dark) coincide with fiercely rich reds, blues, purples and greens.

Silhouettes:  Relaxed, but not too baggy.  The slip-on high-waist dresses fit in a straight flattering line– which conveniently makes for an androgynous complement to the slim, narrow lines on the men’s pieces.  On the flipside, feminine poise is illustrated via emphasized waists, flowy fabrics, constricted skirts and torso-hugging corsets. 

Accessories Report: Printed stockings add a bit of whimsy to the pieces.  The thoughtful shrugs, ponchos, mutated boleros and capes are beautifully crafted and give justice to the runway presentation.  Different types of hats include outsized fedoras (or are they porkpies?) and the occasional use of varied handbags to add some zest.

What’s Wearable: The necklines, both engulfing and modestly plunging, are very appealing. The knit and fall-friendly fabrics are adorned with various graphics that include, but are not limited to, roses, Asian characters, cowgirls and the abominable snowman playing a drum set (at least that’s what it looks like).  The patchy pieces are very fun and the use of texture in the skirts, pants and tops are very conceptual – but still look good for the average Joe or Jane.  Eveningwear is a bit subdued and tangential, but sexy.  Overall, the use of old fashioned aesthetics (i.e. knits, ruffles, lace) is mixed well with modern day technique.

What’s Not Wearable: The pieces are both strategic and well made, but there is one piece in particular that was a simple eyesore – the hole-in the chest cat suit thing was too bohemian Victorian. It carries an "Interview with a Vampire” theme that is theatrically tacky. The biggest downfall of the piece was the unflattering pair of printed pants (they looked like stretch pants. Once again the mixed patterns began to be too excessive and eventually became less appealing and more epileptic.

1 comment February 10th, 2006

Omiru’s Fashion Week Trend Roundup, Part IV

Capes and Capelets: One of the huge trends this season.  Maybe this is The Poncho, Part II.
Derek Lam, Oscar de la Renta, Monique Lhuillier, Narciso Rodriguez, Tuleh, Rachel Comey, Twinkle, Proenza Schouler

Small and Square Sunglasses: It’s like the fashion world woke up and decided it didn’t want to be bug eyed anymore.
Carolina Herrera, BCBG, Luella Bartley, Proenza Schouler

Nerd Glasses for Men: Can we say Geek Chic?  Disclaimer: Sporting these glasses as an awkward teenager probably won’t win you any more dates.
Trovata, Lacoste

Short Gloves: You go guys, for bucking the trend against the long, elbow-length glove.
Derek Lam, Proenza Schouler

3/4 Sleeve Styles: Trisha bought one of these 3/4 sleeve coats, but on her it was more like 7/8. Alas.
Proenza Schouler, Carolina Herrera

Missed a previous edition of Omiru’s Fashion Week Trend
Roundup? Fear Not!  Here’s Omiru’s Mid Fashion Week Trend Roundup, Part
, and Part III.

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Profiles in Style | Jenny, Amanda, and Claire

Jenny Dutko, Amanda Dolan, and Claire Lyddan at NY Fashion Week
Pictured, left to right: Jenny Dutko, Amanda Dolan, and Claire Lyddan.
Photo Credit: Kelly Nolan

Spotted in the tents right before the Heatherette show…

Jenny Dutko, 25
Occupation:Works for IMG (puts together Fashion Week Daily and helps organize Fashion Week with PR firm 7th on 6th).
Personal Style: Classic with a bit of an edge, I like to combine trends with a bit of funk.
Fashion Idol: My friend, Amanda Dolan (pictured, middle).
Hometown: NYC.

Amanda Dolan, 23
Occupation: Artist, into fine arts, music and fashion– designed Jenny’s shirt.
Personal Style:Eclectic.
Fashion Idol: Courtney Love.
Hometown: NYC, East Village.

Claire Lyddan, 23

Occupation: Also works for IMG.
Personal Style: Classic, I love black and everything cashmere.
Fashion Idol(s): Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford.
Hometown: NYC , Financial District.

What’s in (collective) for Spring:
Lots of white; nautical looks; military influences, especially on jackets; empire waists, belted dresses, espadrilles, skirts.

What’s out: Platforms, clogs, Western inspired clothing.

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Fashion Week Notebook | Milly by Michelle Smith

 Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways:  This season, Milly was inspired by the sixties, as reflected in fun retro prints.

Color Palette:  Two color schemes comprised the fall collection, one in brown, bubblegum pink and cream, and another sixties-inspired brown/green/yellow/cream/orange combo.

Silhouettes: 1960s Op Art print sheaths, double-breasted and fur-trimmed coats, sheer blouses and tie-neck tops.

Accessories Report: Chain link details, fur trimmed coats, maryjanes and oversized bows.

What’s Wearable: Virtually everything. As usual, designer Michelle Smith has paid attention to flattering shapes, colors and detailing.

What’s Not Wearable: A few of the sheer blouses need to be worn with something underneath when translating into reality.

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Fashion Week Notebook | Marc by Marc Jacobs

 Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways:  The look was very Bobo (think Mary-Kate and Stavros in the Village).

Color Palette:  As if straight out of a Rothko painting, the color scheme was limited to blue, grey and black.

Silhouettes: Models strutted down the runway in layer upon layer of oversized clothing.

Accessories Report: Ultralong scarves (and necklaces for women), newsboy hats, logo duffels, knit ski hats for men, pins on lapels, suspenders, fanny packs.

What’s Wearable: For women, a capelet with oversized buttons; an oversized wool grey coat; slouchy leather bags. For men, fitted blazers with pin adornments on the lapel.

What’s Not Wearable: Colorless colonial-style dresses for women; for men, sleeves hooked to the thumbs.

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Fashion Week Notebook | Time in the “Fashion Zone”

The phrase "fashionably late" must have had its beginnings somewhere during Olympus Fashion Week. Of the more than 10 shows I attended during the week, ranging from small shows like Abaete to larger shows like Kenneth Cole, BCBG and Baby Phat, not one of them started on time.  In fact, most of them started about 45 minutes late, and the shows lasted about 10-12 minutes long.

During fashion week, shows "start" on the hour and take place in one of three places in the Bryant Park tents: the Atelier (for smaller shows), the Promenade (for slightly larger shows) and the Tent (for big behemoth shows, like Lacoste and Zac Posen). Some designers have shows off-site in smaller showrooms in New York, generally in trendy areas like Soho or Chelsea. Shows begin, at earliest, at 9 am, and end, at latest, at 10 pm.

Junior public relations representatives start checking guests in about 25 minutes before the show starts. If you’re lucky, the PR company has already called you and told you your seating assignment via telephone before the show takes place. This generally only happens if you’re Anna Wintour or some A or B-list celebrity, however. Most of the time, you can expect to spend anywhere from 10 minutes to half an hour waiting in a herd of people to check in for the show.

Hopefully, you’re important enough to rank a seating assignment. Public relations companies in charge of shows seat guests in order or importance at the show. Generally the hierarchy goes something like this: A-list and B-list celebrities, front row, scattered among various prominent fashion editors from the U.S. and international offices of Harper’s Bazaar, Lucky and Vogue (although Anna and Andre Leon only show up to a couple big shows during the week); buyers from high-end department stores rank just behind them, followed by makeup, hair and other show sponsors. Everyone else (ranging from friends to virtually unknown journalists such as myself) sometimes get to fill in the rest of the seats. More than likely though, the regular folks end up in standing room.

Those with seating assignments can sit down almost as soon as they are checked in, generally about 10 or 15 minutes after the hour. Standing room guests get lumped into a massive line and are let in about 20 to 25 past the hour. If there are any seats left at that time, standing room guests can fill them in (this is more likely during the afternoon shows). Otherwise, they are shoved to the back of the tent, to try to fight other guests for a decent view of the runway. During the show, anywhere from 27 looks to about 35 looks are shown.

The show usually begins around 45 past the hour and will last anywhere from 10 minutes to 20 minutes. (The shortest show I went to was Baby Phat, coming in at 10 minutes flat, while the longest was Heatherette, which came in around 20 minutes).

In essence, you spend longer standing in line and waiting for the show, than you actually do watching it!

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Introducing Kelly, our NY Fashion Week correspondent!

Introducing Kelly, our New York Fashion Week correspondent!

Kelly is a 20-something journalist living in the Chelsea district of Manhattan. When she’s not on the hunt for the best and most affordable fashion finds (in other words, shopping!), she enjoys reading New York magazine, listening to indie rock and working out at the gym.

Check back for Kelly’s view of Fashion Week, straight from the tents!

Name: Kelly

Astrological sign: Virgo

Can’t live without:
Billy’s Bakery cupcakes, fashion magazines (InStyle, Vogue, New York Magazine), a good book (I love books about Irish history, social justice and anything by David Sedaris and Chuck Klosterman) and my computer and email!

On a Saturday you’ll find me:
doing laundry, working out, cleaning or wandering around New York City.

Retail Haunts: Anthropologie, H&M, Zara, Ann Taylor Loft, Banana Republic, Nordstrom’s and occasionally Forever 21 and Target.

My foolproof outfit: Bootcut Sevens with a fun back pocket design, any of my fun-colored 2 inch-plus stilettos (yes I’m short!) paired with a soft, pinstriped button down shirt, light blue cashmere cardigan and some funky earrings, a oversized hobo, and a Mary Poppins bag. (I love accessories!)

Irrational fear: I don’t really have one irrational fear, but I am a compulsive worrier.

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Fashion Week Notebook | Derek Lam

Derek Lam
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Excellently edited collection from a true up-and-comer.  Key trends: (1) capes, (2) raised waist emphasis, (3) belted styles, (4) tuxedo detailing (5) ruffles, (6) voluminous sleeves, (7) grecian draping, (8) tulip skirt styles.

Color Palette:  Neutrals with splashes of spring green, sunflower yellow, sky blue, and a rich, warm purple.

Silhouettes:  Silhouettes tended to be more fitted on top and loose on the bottom–or vice versa.  Lam showed a host of tailored tops and voluminous skirts–both tulip skirt shapes and the run-of-the-mill full skirt.  He also presented a number of oversized jackets/capes over slim, tailored silhouettes to balance them out.

Accessories Report: Chain necklaces and chain bag handles.  Belts were rather thick and sat at the natural waistline.

What’s Wearable: Lam accomplished the formidable feat of designing an interesting, wearable collection–we were hard pressed to find extremely unwearable looks.  Our favorites?  A long babydoll shirt paired with a suit jacket, pants, and short gloves…and fur (skip the fur, make Trisha happy)–shown above.  We also appreciated the black asymmetric capelet paired with a bright yellow ruffled shirt, long gloves, and skinny pants.

What’s Not Wearable: One blousy white halter dress wasn’t particularly flattering, even on the model’s thin frame.  The stark contrast of the thick black belt didn’t do her any favors either.

1 comment February 10th, 2006

Fashion Week Notebook | Trovata

Trovata Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Inventive Swiss-inspired collection with looks ranging from a sporty equestrian to extras in the  Sound of Music to a 1920s-meets-preppy-schoolgirl outfit.  Key trends included: (1) Toggle coats for men and women, (2) short sleeved looks, (3) double breasted coats, (4) stripes and solids for men, (5) raised waistlines, (6) vests, (7) giant cuff bracelets, and (8) fair isle sweaters.  What did we appreciate the most about Trovata?  Even in the simplest of outfits (a v-neck sweater over a button down shirt and slacks), we saw clear attention to detail: the shirt sleeves peeked out from under the sweater a perfect amount–about 3/4 inch–just as they should when a man is wearing a suit blazer.

Color Palette: Neutrals with shots of mustard yellow, olive, burnt orange, purple, sky blue, and bright royal blue.

Silhouettes: Silhouettes were generally slim, but some looks paired a fitted top over a more generously proportioned bottom.  For women, we saw short sleeved dresses, fresh looking sailor looks–including a great pair of sailor pants with purposefully mismatched buttons, fair isle sweaters, short sleeved looks, boatneck styles, asymmetry, loose flowy skirts on dresses, cropped pants, striped tights, and sweatervests.  For men, we saw striped looks under jackets, plenty of plaid, suspenders, fair isle sweaters, peacoats, and of course, toggle coats.

Accessories Report: For women, giant charms on necklaces, giant cuff bracelets, scarves wrapped around the head Grace Kelly style, hoodie-like hats, knit caps with bills, furry hats, and tights (but of course).  For men, we saw untied bow ties, suspenders, and beanies.

What’s Wearable: Most of the collection was wearable, but we especially loved the toggle coats and sweaters for both men and women.  We also appreciated Trovata’s take on the nautical theme: a cropped blazer + a button down striped shirt with yoke + sailor pants with multicolored buttons.  

What’s Not Wearable: I would skip on the Sound of Music ensembles, but they were just for show anyways.

1 comment February 10th, 2006

Fashion Week Notebook | Proenza Schouler


Schouler Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways:  A rather somber collection of generally slim, tailored silhouette.  We noticed Lazaro and Jack’s love of the dart, though at times, the collection reminded us of Patterndrafting I’s dart manipulation exercise. Key trends included (1) waist emphasis on a higher waistline, (2) oversized collars, (3) dresses over long sleeved shirts, (4) 3/4 sleeve jackets, (5) vests, (6) grecian style draping, (7) fur trim, (8) tights, (9) voluminous sleeves, and (10) asymmetry.

Color Palette:  Dark. If you squinted at the runway, all you would see are shades of black, grey, and brown.  We also spotted a purple dress in the mix.

Silhouettes:  Emphasis was placed once again on the waistline (which sat a bit higher than it did last season).  Most silhouettes were slim, though we did see a host of oversized coats, creating a "big over small" silhouette. Classifications included long sleeved dresses, 3/4 sleeve jackets, pencil skirts, belted styles, oversized cape-like jackets, motorcycle jackets, and vests.

Accessories Report: Oversized belts, dark tights, smaller square sunglasses, and short gloves (a welcome break from everyone and their mother showing Long gloves).

What’s Wearable: Our favorite look of this collection?  A cropped 3/4 sleeve blazer over a grey knit shirt (shown above), paired with a fancy embellished skirt and tights.

What’s Not Wearable: Just say "no" to leather pants.  You’ll thank us when you’re older.  The oversized collarless jackets are also unflattering to the figure–even to that of a model.

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