May 16th, 2006
Photo Credit: Drew Altizer
Key Takeaways: Gytha Mander (meaning “A Gift From Me”) brings us a collection that fuses Rasputin-like tendencies with a Dsquared mindset. Even so, his pitch-perfect men’s apparel exude a dark elegance that echoes equestrian regality with warm tailor-made suits. His style seems to find that form-fitting nuance that seems to get lost in Western menswear.
Color Palette: A mix of ruby reds, oranges, blacks, whites, teals, camos, blues, browns, purples, and a whole landslide of shades provide a warm hodgepodge of colors that compliment this collection. All of them blend smoothly without taking away from the designer’s vision – especially the iridescent blue lined blazers.
Silhouettes: Fitting each model to a tee, the mildly sharp, broad-shouldered blazers are juxtaposed with the autumnal skinny-fit trousers.
Accessories Report: Ties are whimsically paisley printed and fancy with bold stripes, while scarves make an occasional appearance.
What’s Wearable: Nearly all of the outerwear is something all fashion-minded men would want to get their hands on – even the professorial herringbone jacket with leather elbow patches. He switches things up with an alternative to the traditional button down shirt via the banker shirt. The use of unique color perspectives and prints excel with the linings and stitching in the topcoats and blazers, while the trousers (even the denim) fit handsomely. The overall contrasting textures make a lot of the pieces appealing and wearable.
What’s Not Wearable: There was a recurring bib present on many of the tops. They seemed more infantile than fashionable – but they are useful for those butter-dripping lobster dinners. The trousers may have been endearing overall, but there was one particular pair that drew unnecessary attention to the crotch area. The pants looked like Brokeback Bon Jovi. Gytha Mander also utilized gun holsters in the collection (à la John Bartlett Fall Collection ’06.) They make look cool on the runway, but unless you’re a prominent law enforcer, let’s leave this one on the racks.