Archive for September 10th, 2007

Spring 2008 Fashion Week Notebook: Academy of Art

Academy of Art Spring 2008 Runway
Photo Credit: Dan Lecca for Mercedes Benz


By Colleen Geary, fashion stylist and image consultant

Academy of Art University graduate designers presented concise collections of clear vision–and execution. Who should you keep your eyes on?  Omiru’s top three picks for up-and-coming design talent:

Andrea Vance, MFA Textile and Fashion Design

Andrea opened the show with a collection of beautiful yellow and black dresses featuring blown-up images of the structure and silhouettes of Japanese bamboo basketry.  Despite the loud patterns, each of the dresses exuded a whimsical sort of grace.  As the patterns became more modern so too the cut of the dresses.  A fun element was the use of neon yellow and orange radios as headpieces - whimsical and charming.

Jiyoon "Lydia" Yeom, MFA Knitwear Design
Inspired by nature’s spirit, Jiyoon Yeom presented beautifully crafted knitwear in a wide range of colors and fabulous textures.  Layering techniques on sleeves of one pattern over another added a richness and almost gypsy spirit to her collection.  We took note of the collection’s punkishly graceful lines, which lent a deep and unexpected sophistication to knitwear.  Accesories included fabulous colorful and overstated knit bangle bracelets in hot pinks and oranges.

Haa Cheng Thai, MFA Fashion Design
Kirigami, the Japanese art of paper folding and cutting, was the influence on Haa Cheng Thai’s  striking laser-cut fabrics.  Colors were rich and subdued pewter, browns and navy blues.  Silhouettes were cut very close to the body, allowing the fabulous laser cut detail to steal the show.  The stand out dress from this collection was an elegant high-waisted laser cut pewter skirt with a navy pleated top.  We loved the proportion of the skirt to the top and found the peacock feather accent in the model’s hair to be thoroughly charming.

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Spring 2008 Fashion Week Notebook: Narciso Rodriguez

Narciso Rodriguez Spring 2008 Runway
Photo Credit: NY Magazine


Key Takeaways:
  A breezy, feminine collection from the master of architectural clothing. Narciso Rodriguez went beyond his signature sensous seaming to add volume with pleats and folds.  Bright colors–purples, blues, and reds also dotted the runway, adding variety to the usual blacks, greys, and whites.  The big surprise?  Prints! 

Color Palette:  Neutrals mixed with purples, blues, peaches, and reds.

Silhouettes:  Narciso’s traditional architectural suits (a must for every season) were accompanied by minidresses, smock dresses, loosely fitted blouses, and a cocoon-shaped bubble hemmed coat.  Silhouettes were either small-over-big, with a fitted top and a voluminous bottom, or small-over-small.  Narciso emphasized the waistline through a skintight fit at the waist instead of the more common use of the belt.

For men, Narciso created structured suits–and even a blazer-on-shorts combination.  Of note was the extremely narrow jacket lapels for men.

Accessories Report:  For women, a wide fabric belt, often constructed with self fabric.  For men, narrow-to-medium width ties.

What’s Wearable: The voluminous sleeve seen on many of the blouses is kind to those with heavy upper arms.  And for those blessed with stellar legs, Narciso’s miniskirts and minidresses are quite fetching.

For men, the jackets with narrow lapels work well on men of small to average build.  Men with an athletic shape, however, should opt for a thicker lapel for visual balance.

What’s Not Wearable:  For women, roomy, straight-up-and-down smocks make you look larger than life.

Previous Narciso Rodriguez Fashion Week Coverage from Omiru:
Fall 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Narciso Rodriguez
Spring 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Narciso Rodriguez
Fall 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Narciso Rodriguez
Spring 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Narciso Rodriguez

3 comments September 10th, 2007

Big Button Long Sweater

Big Button Sweater at Forever 21

The giant oversized buttons on this rib-knit sweater–and the long length–make it Very Fall 2007.

$27.80  at Forever 21.

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Spring 2008 Fashion Week Notebook: Diane von Furstenberg

Diane von Furstenberg Spring 2008 Runway
Photo Credit: Dan Lecca for Mercedes Benz


Key Takeaways:
  Diane von Furstenberg’s Spring 2008 collection was an island getaway, with breezy silhouettes, island and ethnic inspired prints, and bright colors. 

Color Palette:  Diane von Furstenberg went island-hopping with her color choices, adding reds, yellows, oranges, greens, and rich blues to a palette of neutrals.

Silhouettes:  Dresses stole the show. Asymmetrical dresses, maxi dresses, empire waist dresses, tunic dresses, sheath dresses, t-shirt dresses, and Diane’s signature wrap and shirtdresses.  Waistlines ranged from near the hip (drop waist styles) to the natural waistline to below the bust (empire waist styles).  Keeping on trend, Diane showed high-waisted wide leg pants, shirtdresses with cuffed sleeves, and maxi dresses.  Of note were the matching jacket and skirt combinations–sure to be a hit on the retail floor.

Accessories Report:  Scarves tied around the head, an off-center fedora, oversized square-shaped sunglasses, and long, jeweled necklaces.

What’s Wearable:  Figure flattery favorites included the high-waisted pants, the wrap styles, and the well-cut shirtdresses.

What’s Not Wearable:  Big prints on floor-length dresses can be overwhelming on small frames.  Wear with caution.

Previous Diane von Furstenberg Fashion Week Coverage from Omiru:
Fall 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Diane von Furstenberg
Spring 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Diane von Furstenberg
Fall 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Diane von Furstenberg
Spring 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Diane von Furstenberg

2 comments September 10th, 2007

Spring 2008 Fashion Week Notebook: Peter Som

Peter Som Spring 2008 Runway
Photo Credit: Dan Lecca for Mercedez Benz


Key Takeaways:
  An elegantly wearable collection perfect for the ladies who lunch.  Key trends included: emphasis on the waistline, high-waisted pants, the buttoned-up-to-the-neck blouse, the knee-length skirt, dresses with pockets, and the long blazer.

Color Palette: 
Muted neutrals, accented by matte metallics and the occasional splash of bright color (reds and yellows).

Silhouettes: 
For the ladies who lunch, Peter Som showed a number of lunchworthy outfits.  Sheaths paired with a blazer.  High waisted pants worn with a blouse and a 3/4 length coat.  Pants and shorts were high waisted, and skirts fell at or a touch above the knee.  Falling in line with Spring 2008 trends, Peter Som showed belts at the waistline, dresses with pockets, and high-waisted pants.  Also of note was Som’s horizontal stripes, his long hip-length blazers, and his buttoned-up-to-the-neck blouses.

Accessories Report: 
Dual strands of oversized beaded necklaces and brightly colored belts.

What’s Wearable:  Just about everything, right down to the knee-length skirts (universally flattering).

What’s Not Wearable:  Not applicable for this collection.

Previous Peter Som Fashion Week Coverage from Omiru:
Spring 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Peter Som
Fall 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Peter Som
Spring 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Peter Som

6 comments September 10th, 2007


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