The question was asking about details for bespoke suits, not a recommendation of other bespoke products or a warning about the economy.

Q) What is a bespoke suit? What details should I consider?

A) The suit hierarchy is as follows:

1) Bespoke
2) Made-to-measure
3) Off the rack, aka Ready-to-wear

Off the rack is what it sounds like; standard size suits in different fits and fabrics that are mostly made in factories.

Made-to-measure is a what most people think of as a ‘tailored’ suit. The tailor takes measurements and then uses standard size shapes (thing: cut outs) for each of the parts of the suit.

Bespoke is a fully customized suit. The tailor will use hand work almost entirely, including the “individually cut of a paper pattern”. Every nook and cranny will fit your shape perfectly and every panel is customized.

As far as details go, you options are extensive.

First thing to do is choose a fabric that you are going to feel comfortable wearing as regularly as possible. Bespoke suits are meant to be worn, not admired. This suit is the one you will wear every time you close a business deal or go on a third date. I would go with a dark grey or a navy blue with some texture to the fabric.

Next, chose your fit and details. I am a big fan of slim fit jackets and flat front pants (obviously, pleats are like hoola-hoops; gone for decades). Next thing to do is pick the number of buttons. Double breasted suits were making a comeback, and the single button is a classic, but i would choose a single breasted 2 -button, as it will never go out of style.

On to he lapels. Round lapels look great on a tux, but its a little flashy on a suit. Fat lapels are made for 80’s tycoon villains like Gordon Gekko. Go for a narrow peaked lapel with top stitching. Top Sticking is where there is a noticeable ‘border stitch’ on the outside of the lapel, it gives the suit that little extra something..

As far as the extra little details, you should choose a vent in the back that suits your taste. I like the double vent because i never take my jacket off. Also, I love the look of bright patterns under the lapels. If you ever decide to pop your collar, it makes the jacket look unique and super premium. This bold pattern under the lapels should either be the same, or very complementary to the internal lining. The reason for this matching is that I would surely go for the detail you mentioned in the question of “working button holes’. This will allow you to roll up your sleeves and show off the bold lining. I would go with a loud check pattern - think a Caralina Blue and Light Grey check. This will make your suit like a great mullet; business in the front, party in the back.

Hope this helps.

DP

And my tailor makes bespoke suits for around $2500. He’s in Summit NJ and his name is Carlos of Summit Tailors.