Our first designer spotlight highlighted an up-and-coming designer, Engineered Garments.  This time around, we explore a company that has been around for awhile but has been rejuvenated by new designer.  Patrick Robinson, who has worked at labels ranging from Armani to Target, is turning the GAP around.  The GAP used to be that default store for shirts, chinos, and sweaters.  But the GAP seems to have lost its swagger in recent memory.  Is it back? Time will tell, but if Mr. Robinson keeps producing pieces like these, it just may.  

Style Tip: GAP seems to be following in J. Crew and H&M’s footsteps by hiring a high-end designer to create a line for the label at a lower price point.  Unfortunately, none of the Pierre Hardy for GAP boots are available online yet, but be sure to check back for them.  The quality and design of Pierre Hardy at a lower price point is a great value.

Who says watches have to be all gold, diamonds, and leather?  Chicago-based ToyWatch challenges you to think differently; think nylon instead of calf or alligator skin bands, plastic instead of gold or sterling silver cases, and, as is the case with their newest collection, neon-bright colors instead of more subdued offerings.

These Italian-designed watches from designer Marco Mavilla are crafted after high-end watches, but sell at more affordable prices—most watches are in the $200 to $400 range—exactly the kind of steal we love here at Omiru.

The magic of these watches is that they resemble high-end luxury watches, but you never get the feeling that they are just cheap knock-offs.  Jazz is to music as ToyWatch is to watches.  Like jazz artists, who take already written pieces and employ tropes to make the music their own, ToyWatch takes classic timepieces and uses new and interesting materials and design elements to make them unique.

Mr. Mavilla designed his first ToyWatch in 2006, and just two years later, they have caught fire, especially among L.A. celebrities.  It could very well be that ToyWatch will be the next Swatch.

Brown Sports Watch | $255 at Barney’s New York

At first glance, this piece, the result of a collaboration between Men’s Vogue and ToyWatch, looks like an expensive luxury watch.  The band is a grosgrain ribbon, and the subtle rose gold finish on the casing is absolutely perfect.  Subtle and refined, you could wear this piece for almost any occasion and it would look great.  I love this watch.  Limited to 200 units; a steal at $255.

This is the quintessential ToyWatch.  The case and bracelet are both made of a clear acrylic.  And at 38mm, the size is just right.  And, while it is not explicitly stated anywhere, this piece was modeled after the classic Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner; just look at the resemblance!

A piece from ToyWatch’s high-end line, this watch is just beautiful.  The entire thing is ceramic, which gives it a sleek, modern look.  Best of all is its durability: it’s virtually scratchproof. It reminds me of the Chanel J12.

Featuring a black rubber band with stainless steel buckle and a silver dial and bezel, this bold piece is another stunner.  The shape of the case and face make me think of those beautiful Panerai watches.

Nothing says “man watch” like a chunky chronograph.  I like this piece here, with its mother of pearl dial.  It looks similar to a Breitling Navitimer, no?

Style Tip: ToyWatch’s website has a nice little glossary of watch terms that appear frequently throughout the ToyWatch site.  Remember, the informed buyer always makes a better purchase.

Juliana:  I hope people think of good quality, cute designs, and good fit.  

O:  Tell us about your design inspiration.

J: I get my inspiration mostly from materials.  I go shopping for stones, and I get ideas from colors, the stones, and fabrics.  Sure, time periods are interesting, but only as a reference.  I can’t design clothes that look like costume.

O:  You and your mother work together on Le Doux.  What’s it like working with family?

J: Difficult.  We tend to only talk about business.  Don’t get me wrong—we have and always had a good mother-daughter relationship.  But we end up talking about business instead personal stuff, and it’s easy to get frustrated with each other when talking about business.

O:  Le Doux swimsuits are actually made in Brazil.  Why?

J:  In Brazil, we have our own factory.  We did this for quality control. We want to make sure everything is as perfect as can be.  We’ve tried working with manufacturers before, but there was always something wrong.  Either the color was off, or the end product looked like it was low quality.  

O:  What’s your bestselling style?  

J:  Femme Fatale is a big hit.  Flora [pictured above left]  is also doing very well.

J:  I’m a fan of the Flora style.  Flora has volume and is embellished.  But it’s a bit hard to wear.  I also like the simpler styles.  Of those, I think Rose [pictured at right] is very good.  

O:  Your swimsuit designs tend to be fancy and embellished.  Who are you designing them for?  

J:  They’re for people who want to lounge around looking beautiful.  They’re for the style conscious who sit around by the pool or on the beach.  They’re not surfing suits, they’re not sports suits.  

O:  There aren’t a lot of people in that market.

J:  It’s a shame.  The materials we use are expensive, so we need to be at a higher price point.  Sadly, the market at the end of the day is all about price.  For 2008, we’re changing the line a little bit to create a sub-line.  We’ll have plainer suits at a lower price point.   

O: Le Doux combines Brazilian sexiness with California style.  What do you love about LA?

J:  I love the way people are just so stylish in LA.  People are ready for whatever they’re doing.  Brazil’s not that way at all.  I love the city—the weather, the way people socialize, the way that they’re constantly out.  There’s a certain energy there.  

O:  And what do you love about Brazil?

J:  I grew up in Brazil, where there’s a big big beach culture.  People love to have fun.  In Brazil, it’s all about having fun.  It’s different from United States.  There’s a freer spirit there.

O: Having grown up in Brazil, you’re a beach connoisseur.  What’s your favorite beach?

J:  The beach I grew up on.  I love Rio.  But I also love the South of France and Maui.

J:  Clothes that are sexy without revealing too much.  Clothes that are appropriate for one’s body type.  Clothes that aren’t just what everyone else is wearing.  Clothes that are appropriate for you.  

O: Fashion Don’ts:

J:  The 1980s.  The fashion was ugly then, and it’s uglier now.  People are so used to wearing whatever they’re told.

O:  Little known fact about you?

J:  I’m a surfer and a shopaholic.  But these aren’t little known facts.

O:  What can we expect next from Le Doux?

J:  We’ll be doing swimwear for girls in July.  We’re also launching a sleepwear/lingerie line in the next couple of months.

O:  Where can Omiru readers purchase Le Doux swimwear?

J:  We have stores in California, Arizona, Hawaii, Florida, Nevada, and overseas.  We’ll be selling online in a couple of months as well.  

O:  Last Words?

J:  The less fabric a suit has on the back, the smaller the butt looks.  Brazilians used to wearing small suits—now you know why.

Erika: My Catholic upbringing, in particular, has influenced my work very much. I’m inspired by my move from Puerto Rico to New York.  I try to convey this experience through my jewelry, which is a bit rough and edgy, like New York, and a bit light and airy like the Caribbean.

O: What makes your jewelry line unique?

E: It’s spiritual.

E: Sometimes ten minutes. Other times, up to four hours—it depends on the piece.

O: Do you ever experience designer’s block?

E: Yes, I do get designer’s block from time to time. It’s funny, but I actually design best in airplanes.

O: Do you have a team of people working with you?

E: Yes, they’ve been with me since the beginning. And my sister, Bielka Peña-Bevillar, has a strong financial background, so she has helped me out on that part of the business.  With my designer background and her business background, we are building our clientele and expanding the Erika Peña empire!

E: Because we are sold in over 300 boutiques around the globe, celebrities have been exposed to the brand. The boutiques have also been supportive and usually call me when an important celebrity buys a piece. Paris Hilton, Brooke Shields, Paulina Rubio, Jessica Alba, Beyonce, Ashlee Simpson, Fergie and Jennifer Aniston all have worn my pieces.  I have also custom-designed jewelry for celebrities. My goal is for those who wear her jewelry to feel good, and to have a sense of good self.

O: What’s the price point of your collection?

E: My lower end line starts at $60 and goes up to $1200 for the designer line. I want to reach every woman and for everyone to be able to experience the Erika Peña brand.

O: Will you branch out into other accessories?

E: I already have handbags—I love them, you’ll see!

O: Where can we purchase your designs?

E: At my website, Bloomingdales, Harvey Nichols, and Epoca the Shop.

O: Writers often experience writer’s block when they run out of ideas.  Do you ever experience designer’s block?

O: When it comes to handbags, do you think expensive equals good?

M: Really, it depends on your definition of expensive. In terms of the super-pricey high-end designer bags, I assume for the most part, they are of the highest quality and will last for years and years, so in this way, they’re good. Most of them don’t excite me design-wise, though. I don’t even really feel like we’re in the same product category- it’s a different universe. In our world, we really struggle with the balance of trying to keep our prices low enough to be accessible to many women, but at the same time keeping up a high standard of quality. We love to use unusual and unique details (like hand stitching, one of a kind vintage buttons and fabric, etc). Add to that the costs of producing a small line like this locally, it’s difficult. 

M: At the moment, it’s the Boy Peter (pictured left). Lately, I’ve been using this bag almost every day. It’s very functional, the perfect size for me, and I love how it hugs the body.  But I’m hoping it will be de-throned by one of the new spring bags coming out soon!

O: Where can Omiru readers buy your designs?

M: At the moment, the stores that stock our bags are listed on the website.  Online, you can find us at Beklina.com.  It’s also possible to order bags through us.  We promise to get our webshop up and running by the time the spring stuff comes out. In the meantime, send us an email at info at jackandmarjorie dot com. We do sometimes have items in stock that customers can purchase.

Omiru: Tell us the story of you came up with the idea for Freddy&Ma.

Anthony: I had been working as a design consultant and became very interested in the concept of mass customization.  High end products were reaching a saturation point.  Everybody had the latest IT bag, which diminishes the cachet of that style.  I wondered if it was possible to create a line of handbags where every bag was unique so that you might have the IT style, but each would still be unique from everyone else’s.  My sister and I also thought that clients would enjoy participating in the design process as it would allow their handbag to have its own creation story.

O:  You’ve already hit upon one of the Next Big Things in fashion: the idea of customization of luxury goods.  What other ideas do you think will change the industry in the next five to ten years?  

A: A client designs a bag and orders it on our website.  We immediately submit the fabric to the printers to screen the client’s design on the fabric.  Each fabric panel on our bag is individually printed—we do not stock any of the prints we carry!  While the fabric is printing, the leather portions of a bag are sewn together.  Once the fabric arrives, it is combined with the leather portions, and all of the finishing and detail work is completed.  The bag is then put into a slip cover, packed in an F&M box, and shipped to the customer.

O: How do you find the prints for the bags?  

A: We originally placed ads in the NY area to find artists that wanted to submit prints.  But since going live with the site, we’ve received a handful of artist submissions every week.  We have been amazed at how many talented designers have contacted us with GREAT designs that they would like featured on our bags.

A: Very few brands are paying attention to the smaller "after work" bag.  The "hi/lo" concept is also finding its way into the accessory market. [My co-founder] Amy often carries our hobo bag with a Louis Vuitton wallet and $12 credit card organizer from Urban Outfitters that everyone mistakes for Marc Jacobs.  Mixing vintage with designer finds and bargain deals is a trend that continues to gain momentum.

O: On the flip side, which handbag trends are on the way out?  

A: We see a lot of people still hanging on desperately to the bohemian trend which has definitely passed its moment.  Massive amounts of embellishment are also beginning to fade away.  It’s a continuous cycle.  Aside from that, I think that in a market flooded with every imaginable option and influence, women are choosing handbags based on what fits their personal style rather than following set “trends.”

O: What’s your favorite classic handbag?  

A: Why? I love all leather versions of Freddy&Ma silhouettes.  They’re classic without being boring.  In broader terms, every woman should own a Louis Vuitton Speedy in the classic monogram, and a quilted Chanel—the kinds of bags that have been around for so long they truly will never be "out" of style.

O: How about your best fashion tip?

A: Find your style and stick with it.  If you find something you like, have someone remake it for you in lots of colors and fabrics.

O: Current obsession?

A: Even though we run the company together, Amy lives in New York and I live in San Francisco, which though difficult, gives us a nice West coast/East coast cross perspective on things.

O: Best piece of advice you’ve received?

A: Everyone can handle success, but the only people who get the chance are the ones who have learned to handle failure.

O:  Things you’re looking forward to in 2007:  

A: We have a retail line of bags that is launching where stores design the specific bags they are ordering.  We are very excited to start shipping these styles and see our custom bag concept continue to grow.

O:  Last words?

A: Fashion should be about you and your own sense of style.  Don’t ever be afraid to buck the norm and try something different. Trends all start with one person doing what they want to do.

Rosie: Tatty Devine is Eccentric, Eclectic, English and Exciting!
 
O: What are your design influences? How did your art school background affect your aesthetic?

R: I really like the great bear brooch, the satellite necklace (pictured, right) and the red balloon necklace.
 
O: What do you like about London style?

R: That it changes all the time. The mix of new and old. People’s making things themselves and looking individual.

O: What about London style do you wish would just go away?

R: All the people who don’t make things [themselves] and look individual!

O: Current obsessions?

R: Herman Dune, silver leggings, Jarvis Cocker! Oh, and Chanel black nail varnish.

O: 5 Things you like about London:

R: Going to gigs, the George and Dragon (my local!), walking around, the parks, all the people I know and love that live in it.
 
O: 5 people whose wardrobe you’d love to raid:

R: Eley Kishimoto, Bernhard Wilhelm, Antoni and Alison, Vivienne Westwood, and Bernstock Speirs.
 
O: 5 things you always carry in my purse:

R: A notebook, pen, lipstick, mirror, tape measure and compass!
 
O: 5 things you’re feeling for Spring 2007:

R: Lots of colour, nostalgia for growing up in the 1970’s, disco, glitter balls, and fun.
 
O: Fashion Dos:

R: Shop in fancy dress shops! Coloured tights and colour co-ordination. Second hand fashion.

R: Can’t think of any…except maybe thongs, fake orange tans and jeans with special bleach patterns!

R: Tatty Devine has over 1000 designs from past collections for sale in their shops.

O: What can we expect next from Tatty Devine?

R: Opening more shops, expanding the Brick Lane shop, designing other lines.

Michelle: When I first started the line, I had a partner.  At the time I lived on Spring Street in Manhattan, and she lived on Clifton Place in Brooklyn.  Though we stopped working together after the first season, I kept the name.

M: I have experienced “designer’s block” in times of extreme stress or when I’m pushing myself in the wrong direction. But I don’t freak out about it. I think the art of being creative calls for letting go but also being involved in life. My real “problem” is probably that I have TOO MANY ideas.  I am constantly editing, editing, and editing. I also keep a notebook - uh, pile - of my sketches and photos from magazines that I can always refer to if I need a kick.  I often revisit the same ideas, which used to frustrate me, but now I think of these ideas as elements of the Spring & Clifton look, and I hope to evolve them with each collection.

O: How do you strike a balance between being classic and trendy?

M: You can get really tripped up if you go too far on either end of the spectrum: what’s new is unrecognizable, and what’s tried & true feels uninspired. I used to think I had to reinvent the wheel with every collection, but now I think it’s more important to just evolve the Spring & Clifton look from season to season. 

M: Everywhere! I’m constantly observing everything and tucking it away into the inspiration file. I love traveling. I try to make it a point to go to museums and galleries. I look at the work of designers whom I admire. I’ve gotten ideas from reading the New York Times. I’ve used movies and books as references. I love flea markets and eBay. I love New York nightlife and how girls put themselves together.

For my Spring 05 collection, for instance, I was collecting old Playboys from 1960-1970 for the pin-up illustrations of Alberto Vargas. I love his illustrations for the detailing on the clothing and the shoes.  Anyway, I realized that the pin-up was the ultimate sweater girl…and the idea for the collection was born.

O: When it comes to knitwear, do you think expensive equals good?

M: Oh, hell no! I don’t think that expensive = good. I mean, it can, but it doesn’t exclusively guarantee goodness. The most stylish women in the world know how to strike the perfect balance between high brow and low brow, and it’s that contrast that is so much more interesting to me. I’m also a huge flea market/thrift store scourer.  I don’t know what my life would be like without secondhand things, which have so much personality.  As far as knitwear goes, when you start getting into the finer yarns, like cashmere, of course the price is going to go up.  That to me is something worth investing in, but in general, I like to offer a range of prices with Spring & Clifton.

M: I think that a big trend we’re going to see is clothing with a socially conscious message.  For Fall 07, I’ll be using a Bamboo/Cotton blend yarn, which I’m attracted to because bamboo is a biodegradable textile material that is really kind to our environment. I’ve done bamboo/cashmere in the past, and I was surprised at how many new clients I picked up because people really responded to the organic factor.  I think it’s something that people really want.

Don’t take this to mean that the clothes will be at all hippy dippy or anything.  I’ll be making bamboo interesting, stylish and sexy! It’s also amazingly soft, which is important to me because I’m big on comfort. One of my design mantras states that there’s no style without substance, and I think this reinforces that idea.

O: As a designer, do you feel the pressure of always having to dress stylishly?

M: I challenge myself to constantly push my personal look forward.  I think that it reflects in my designs and makes me a better designer. When I’m starting a collection, I always have in mind what I need in my own closet.  I want to know what women want before they know they want it!  My one bad habit is my tendency to reach for my jeans first. I really have to fight that some days!

M: I’d save my 2 cats, Cooley & Slice! If I had extra time, I’d grab my vintage blue hoodie with the silkscreened birds on it. I am really a blue hoodie kind of girl.

O: What type of women do you want to see sporting your designs?

M: That girl on the street that you have to stop and check out twice because something about her style caught your eye.  I’ve seen all kinds of women wearing my sweaters, and at the end of the day, I want anyone who gets a feeling from my clothing to be able to wear it.

O: Where can Omiru readers purchase your clothing?

M: Barney’s Co-Op, M.Z. (my store on the Lower East Side), and online at Shopbop.

Omiru:  How would you like people to describe Sweetees?

Melody: Fresh.  I love it when a customer says, “Oh my gosh, I haven’t seen that anywhere else.”  I feel it’s my job to create something that doesn’t exist necessarily or something that others aren’t selling.  We’re a fun, girly, colorful, happy brand. 

O:  Design influences?

M:  I get inspiration from travel.  I love seeing all the different cultures—the artisans, the colors, prints, and embroideries.  I’m not one to look at what everyone else is doing.  I’d rather go off of my intuition rather than follow the runways.  Why?  Everyone else is following the runways.

O: Favorite travel destination?

M:  I don’t think I could pick just one.  South America.  Mexico, for their colors and embroideries.  India has beautiful colors and fabrics.  Morocco has amazing cool stuff that’s different. 

O:  You work with your fiancé at Sweetees.  How’d you meet?

M:  We met while traveling.  We were both part of the Semester at Sea program, a university on a boat that travels all around the world.  We traveled to fourteen countries, but we were both from the same place. 

O:  What’s it like working with your fiancé?

M:  Really good.  He and I work on totally different aspects of the business, so it works out.   We’re not stepping on each other’s toes—we’re filling each other in.

O:  How do you separate work and life?  Or do you?

M:  It’s still a work in progress.  We try to discuss other things when we’re not at work, but work and life bleed into each other.  We manage to make it work.  At the beginning, all we did was talk about work.  Now, we strike more of a balance.

O:  What’s your current favorite piece from your collection?

M: I really like our rib and chiffon group.  You can dress it up and dress it down.  It’s daywear, but the chiffon makes it dressy.

O:  What do you like about LA style?

M: It’s laid back, but not too laid back.  There’s a balance. 

O: What do you love about LA:

M:  I love the subcultures in LA.  On a weekend, you can go to Olvera Street and feel like you’re in Mexico.  You can go to Little Tokyo and feel like you’re in Japan.  The subcultures are all so close to each other, but they’re not mixed.   

O:  Celebrities love Sweetees.  Turning the table, though, whose wardrobe would you love to raid?

M: Gwyneth Paltrow or Angelina Jolie.

O: Fashion Dos:

M: Scarves.  Accessorizing outfits correctly, putting things together well.  Layering in the right way.  A great handbag and shoes. 

O: Fashion Don’ts:

M: Tucking your shirt in.  Hiking your pants up too high.  Trying too hard and going overboard.  Being a fashion victim.  It has to be organic and natural to you.  Don’t be something you’re not. 

O:  Little known fact about Sweetees?

M:  It was started when I was in college at age 19 by two young entrepreneurs. 

O:  Where can we buy Sweetees online?

M: Find Sweetees online at ShopIntuition.com, RevolveClothing.com, and LisaKline.com.

Lisa: Comfortable and welcoming.  I’ve designed my stores to feel like a home—warm, friendly, and easy to shop.

O:  Who are you buying  now?

L: Our Beverly Hills store just opened a couple of weeks ago.  For women, I’m buying Johnson (shorts), Miguelina, Bailey 44, Rachel Pally, Cynthia Vincent, and Charlotte.  For men, I’m buying Ever, Fred Perry, Theory, Modern Amusement, Salvage, Chip & Pepper, and LA Denim.

O:  Current bestsellers?

L: For women, Rebecca Taylor, Splendid, Robert Rodriguez, Ingwa Melero, Juicy Couture, Chip & Pepper, and Joe’s Jeans.  For men, Splendid, Ever, Modern Amusement, Theory, and Juicy Couture Men’s.

O: What do you buy for the girl who has everything?

L:  A Botkier purse.  Straight-legged denim.  Shorts—perfect for wearing with a tunic dress.  A cool belt.  Fun jewelry.

O:  How about for the guy who has everything?

L:  A cashmere sweater from Autumn Cashmere.  Black or grey denim for Spring.  Or jewelry—a wallet chain, money clip, bracelet, necklace, or cufflinks.  

O:  What trends do you think will be huge for Spring?

L: For women, dresses—especially minidresses and tunics.  Great tops that are long enough to be a dress, paired with shorts and high heels or boots.  Skinny legged denim.  Leggings.  Belts.  80s infuences.  Patent leather accessories.  Miniskirts.

For men, western influences, rocker looks, and straight legged jeans.

O:  What trends do you wish would just go away?

L:  None.  I really love all the trends that are happening now!

O: 5 Things you like about LA?

L:  It’s a beautiful place to live with great weather and no seasons.  You can take risks.  There’s room to be creative.  It’s hip and fashion forward.  It’s a place where dreams come true.  

O:  5 people whose wardrobe I’d love to raid:

L:  Cameron Diaz, Kate Hudson, Paris Hilton, Jennifer Aniston, and Halle Berry.

O: Best Fashion Tip?

L:  Wear what makes you feel comfortable, even if it’s not the trend.  

O:  Your foolproof outfit?

L:  Jeans, a sexy top, a sweater, and heels.  Oh, and a killer purse.

O:  Little known fact about you?

L:  I like to race cars.  I’m also a mom with two kids.  

O:  Last Words:

L: If you have a passion and a dream, go for it. 

Shop Lisa Kline’s boutiques from the comfort of your own couch at http://www.lisakline.com/.