Posts filed under 'Runway Reviews'

Spring 2008 Fashion Week Notebook: Marc by Marc Jacobs

Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2008 Runway
Photo Credit: NY Magazine

Key Takeaways:
  While Marc Jacobs’ namesake collection was all about theatrics, his Marc by Marc Jacobs collection provided much more wearable looks.  Of note was the often-subtle asymmetry seen in the collection–perhaps one shirt panel done in a different fabric, or having a rounded corner hem on one jacket side and a square corner hem on the other.  Key trends included: the high waistline, colorblocking, dots, bows, short shorts, emphasis on the waistline, and nautical influences (e.g. sailor pants, horizontal stripes, navy blue).

Color Palette:  Neutrals plus navy, red, brown, and olive yellow.

Silhouettes:  For women, the most important trends were: emphasis on the (high) waistline, boxy dresses and jackets, the cropped jacket, skirts that fall at mid-thigh,and skinny pants.  Key detailing included oversized pockets and the v-strap neckline.  For men, skinny pants, short shorts, and tiny collars on collared shirts.

Accessories Report:  For women, belts at the waist, wide-brimmed hats, tall newsboy-style caps, shoulder strap handbags, the clutch…and luggage.  The Marc by Marc Jacobs woman is a jet-setter.  For men, too-short ties, medium width ties, sport sneakers, and aviator sunglasses (hung in the pocket, not worn).

What’s Wearable:  Silhouettes, minus the short shorts and skinny pants, were generally wearable–though the subtle asymmetry of the garments is harder to pull off.  Our favorite wearable look for women was a silk tie-neck polka-dotted blouse paired with a high-waisted navy skirt fashioned to emulate sailor pants.  On the men, we loved the 70s inspired safari coat.

What’s Not Wearable:
  If you’re uncomfortable with the untraditional, skip this collection.

Previous Marc Jacobs Fashion Week Coverage from Omiru:
Fall 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Marc Jacobs
Spring 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Marc by Marc Jacobs
Spring 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Marc Jacobs
Fall 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Marc by Marc Jacobs
Fall 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Marc Jacobs
Spring 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Marc by Marc Jacobs
Spring 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Marc Jacobs

2 comments September 12th, 2007

Spring 2008 Fashion Week Notebook: Narciso Rodriguez

Narciso Rodriguez Spring 2008 Runway
Photo Credit: NY Magazine

Key Takeaways:
  A breezy, feminine collection from the master of architectural clothing. Narciso Rodriguez went beyond his signature sensous seaming to add volume with pleats and folds.  Bright colors–purples, blues, and reds also dotted the runway, adding variety to the usual blacks, greys, and whites.  The big surprise?  Prints! 

Color Palette:  Neutrals mixed with purples, blues, peaches, and reds.

Silhouettes:  Narciso’s traditional architectural suits (a must for every season) were accompanied by minidresses, smock dresses, loosely fitted blouses, and a cocoon-shaped bubble hemmed coat.  Silhouettes were either small-over-big, with a fitted top and a voluminous bottom, or small-over-small.  Narciso emphasized the waistline through a skintight fit at the waist instead of the more common use of the belt.

For men, Narciso created structured suits–and even a blazer-on-shorts combination.  Of note was the extremely narrow jacket lapels for men.

Accessories Report:  For women, a wide fabric belt, often constructed with self fabric.  For men, narrow-to-medium width ties.

What’s Wearable: The voluminous sleeve seen on many of the blouses is kind to those with heavy upper arms.  And for those blessed with stellar legs, Narciso’s miniskirts and minidresses are quite fetching.

For men, the jackets with narrow lapels work well on men of small to average build.  Men with an athletic shape, however, should opt for a thicker lapel for visual balance.

What’s Not Wearable:  For women, roomy, straight-up-and-down smocks make you look larger than life.

Previous Narciso Rodriguez Fashion Week Coverage from Omiru:
Fall 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Narciso Rodriguez
Spring 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Narciso Rodriguez
Fall 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Narciso Rodriguez
Spring 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Narciso Rodriguez

3 comments September 10th, 2007

Spring 2008 Fashion Week Notebook: Duckie Brown

Duckie Brown Spring 2008 Runway
Photo Credit: Dan Lecca for Mercedes Benz

Key Takeaways: 
Steven Cox and Daniel Silver of Duckie Brown are firm believers that menswear can be exciting and colorful.   While their looks are fairly wearable, their flirtation with color and pattern show their sense of humor–and style.  Spring 2008 merged the athletic with the preppy, with key trends including the just-above-the-knee short, 70s style pointed collars, the cotton trenchcoat, and an emphasis on formality with the three piece suit.

Color Palette:  Experimenting with shine, Cox and Silver played with shiny satins–and what appears to be gold lamé.  A neutral palette of creamy whites, tans, greys, and black was splashed with color: bright reds, oranges, and yellows. Loud, colorful floral prints also creeped their way into the collection.

Silhouettes:  Key looks included the just-above-the-knee short, button-down shirts with 70s style exaggerated pointed collars, cotton trenchcoats, and the 3 piece suit (echoing Fall 2007’s return to formality).  Preppy looks included blazers with shorts and the three-piece suits.  Athletic looks included a just-stepped-off-the-court wifebeater paired with shorts and a gauzy grey hooded sweater.  Trousers were more accurately described as slacks, with their loose fit, while the shorts were cut with a slimmer fit.  Most jackets were oversized and sack shaped, but Duckie Brown featured a couple of slim-cut styles: a shrunken blazer and a motocross jacket. 

Accessories Report:
  Duckie Brown’s signature accessory: colorful, striped socks.  Cox and Silver also showed beanie hats, sneakers, and patent leather loafers.

What’s Wearable:
  The just-above-the-knee short is a winner, as are the splashes of color from the accessories.

What’s Not Wearable:  Forget about the flowery pants.  We’re going to pretend we didn’t just see that.

Previous Duckie Brown Fashion Week Coverage from Omiru:
Fall 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Duckie Brown
Spring 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Duckie Brown
Fall 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Duckie Brown
Spring 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Duckie Brown

Add comment September 6th, 2007

Spring 2008 Fashion Week Notebook: Perry Ellis

Perry Ellis Spring 2008 Runway
Photo Credit: Dan Lecca for Mercedes Benz

Key Takeaways:
Distinctly nautical, with a casual beach town vibe.  Textures and fabrics, rather than silhouette, were key to this collection.

Color Palette:  Sunset colors–yellows and flashes of orange–accompanied a palette of muted neutrals.  Shades of brown and tan were seen alongside creams, greys, and "sail" white.  Patterns included horizontal stripes (a dominant theme) and plaids.

Silhouettes:  Knee-length shorts, thin lightweight sweaters, turtlenecks, beachy linen pants, cuffed trousers, hoodies, and loosely fitted blazers. 

Accessories Report:  Deck shoes, white sneakers, and big sunglasses.

What’s Wearable:  We love the casual chic of a loosely fitted cardigan and plain white tee over knee-length shorts.  Style points for men who layer textures: knit sweaters and hoodies over woven button-down shirts–or under sack-shaped blazers.

What’s Not Wearable:  Don’t try the plaid short shorts at home.  Ditto for the see-through sweaters.

Previous Perry Ellis Fashion Week Coverage from Omiru:
Fall 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Perry Ellis
Spring 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Perry Ellis
Spring 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Perry Ellis

2 comments September 6th, 2007

Fall 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Heatherette

Heatherette Fall 2007 Runway
Photo Credit: NewYork Magazine

Key Takeaways: In a season of intense wearability (hello, Betsey Johnson), we took an intermission at Heatherette, where we saw no shortage of neon colors, fanciful silhouettes, and eclectic detailing. Lots of layering, hordes of warming sweaters, some punk and some ski-inspired looks made their way down the purposefully wild runway. If a skier and a punk-rocker fought each other in a deathmatch, their remains would resemble the Heatherette Fall 2007 show.

Color Palette: Every color under the sun, including purple, bright blue, neon yellow, red, hot pink, silver and gold.

Silhouette: Equally voluminous and skin-tight. Voluminous looks included bubble skirts, sweaters, ponchos, zip-up hoodies, and Tarzan dresses. Streamlined looks included high-waisted skirts, short shorts, leather bathing suits, and leather pants.

Accessories Report: Sheer tights, ankle boots, layered and chunky bangles, and hats.

What’s Wearable: Almost nothing in Heatherette’s collection is directly translatable to the streets. But then again, do Traver Rains and Richie Rich really design for the common folk?

What’s Not Wearable: We’d like to point out the Dorothy-inspired costume and the leather accessories (which scream S&M).

3 comments February 9th, 2007

Fall 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Narciso Rodriguez

Narciso Rodriguez Fall 2007 Runway
Photo Credit: NewYork Magazine

Key Takeaways:  Narciso Rodriguez has been experimenting with the same sleek, structured forms for the last few years, but his work appears fresh and innovative against a backdrop of designers moving from layering and volume to a long and lean silhouette.  Key trends for both men and women included: slim silhouettes, geometric patterns, and colorblocking.  Key women’s trends included sleeved and asymmetrical dresses and long gloves.

Color Palette: Black, grey,beige, and white were spruced up by teal and a dusky emerald green.  Colorblocking added a graphic feel to the collection.

With touches of 60s elegance, Narciso showed slightly big over small, or small over slightly big silhouettes.  Overall, the looks were long and lean, with precise tailoring for a snug fit.  Structured coats skimmed over skinny pants and dresses.  As a nod to seasons past, Narciso showed a few body-hugging, empire waist sleeveless dresses.  Other dress trends to note included sleeved dresses and asymmetrical frocks.  For men, the look was either slim all over or slightly big over small.  Of note was a "paint splattered" graphic print tee–a departure from Narciso’s past menswear.

Accessories Report:  For women, the big accessory was long gloves; for men, it was the skinny tie.

What’s Wearable:  For women (with a slightly curvy figure), we love Narciso’s signature body-hugging empire-waist dresses.  Silhouette-wise, it’s tough to go wrong with the slightly big over small and the small over slightly big silhouettes.  For men, the slim cut suits with skinny ties are great for adding visual height.

What’s Not Wearable:  For women, avoid dresses and skirts that hit you at mid-calf, as the awkward length visually shortens you.  For men, steer clear of pants with tiny patterns–they look more like pajamas than street pants.

2 comments February 8th, 2007

Fall 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Cabbeen

Cabbeen Fall 2007 Runway
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All

Key Takeaways:  As the first designer from Mainland China to present at New York Fashion Week, Mr. Cabbeen shows us just how funky, modern and colorful Chinese fashion has become.  Wearable everyday bombers in twill and nylon were paired with carefree trousers and jeans and laid-back black trainers with painted or embroidered embellishment.  Fabric choices ranged from plaid to chevron to pinstripe.

Color Palette:  A rainbow of colors ranging from the requisite grey, navy and black to pale yellow, maroon and army green.  Colorblocking and plaid fabrics featured prominently in the collection.

Silhouette:  Relaxed on top with long and lean hoodies and tanks paired under comfy jackets and casually fitted pants and jeans. 

Accessories Report:  Scarves and striped ties adorned the necks of most models.  Most also sported black trainers or roll-top ankle boots in neutral colors.  

What’s Wearable:  For the guy with a bit of fashion-funk, we recommend the robin’s egg blue jacket with cherry blossom embroidery to catch the eye of any lucky lady (or lad). 

What’s Not Wearable:  If it’s over 20 degrees where you live and the sun is shining, steer clear of the oil-slick inspired puffer jackets so as not to blind innocent bystanders.

2 comments February 6th, 2007

Fall 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Perry Ellis

Perry Ellis Fall 2007 Runway
Photo Credit: NewYork Magazine

Key Takeaways:  Creative director John Crocco  showed a group of clean looks featuring horizontal stripes and cozy wool, thermal and leather pieces that have us dreaming of hot cocoa by the ski lodge fire.  Thick knits featured chevrons and other geometric patterns.  Rugged models where snuggled under warm winter beanies and sported a "just-in-from-the-cold" makeup scheme of blushed faces and rosy red lips. Key trends included: neutral colors, patterned knit fabric (e.g. cable knit), horizontal stripes, plaid, the sweaterjacket, pocket detailing (on pants and jackets), and high waisted pants.

Color Palette: Classic shades: creamy winter whites, simple blacks and greys were complemented by several tones of steel blue-grey. 

Silhouettes: Thick cream cable knits were paired with slim (but not tapered) high-waisted dress pants in strong shades of blue.  Suits were cut slim, but not tight, and included vests in contrast fabric.  Detailing included leather strips, fur cuffs, and on pants–extra pockets.  Bare-chested muscular men in long white underwear reminded us that thermals can be both playful and practical. 

Accessories Report:  Scarves!  This friendly little neck warmer comes in many shapes and sizes, as Crocco cleared showed with several long and short loops of cashmere/wool warmth in oatmeal-type colors.  Several large totes in various wool and brown leather were carried down the runway–perfect for the man who has everything–-and needs to carry it on the go.  Feet were kept cozy in glossy styles and snug pale blue suede shoes.  Hands were covered in sleek black or dark brown leather gloves. 

What’s Wearable:  V-neck cardigans and tailored dress pants are stylishly safe for the elegant contemporary man.  We love the stylish 3/4 length coats–and the sweaterjackets–to keep you warm for Fall.  The pocket-as-embellishment detailing on pants and jackets is a quiet, but effective way to stand out in a crowd.

What’s Not Wearable:  We’re not a fan of the plaid pants–they’re more pajamas than real pants.

3 comments February 5th, 2007

Fall 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Duckie Brown

Duckie Brown Fall 2007 Runway
Photo Credit: NewYork Magazine

Key Takeaways: Steven Cox and Daniel Silver of Duckie Brown cheekily juxtaposed streetwear with suits for Fall 2007.  Key trends included: colorblocking, skinny pants, wide pants, plaid patterns, colored gloves, and the pointed beanie.

Color Palette: Dark; blacks and browns were accented by touches of bright orange, green, turquoise and yellow.  Plaid patterned tops were featured with dark colored trousers.

Silhouette: Blazers were cut exclusively with two buttons.  Loose fitting coats and jackets were paired with skinny pants for a big-over-small look.  Two other garment classifications of note: the vest and the shrunken blazer.

Accessories Report: Colorful gloves and bright (pointed) beanie hats.

What’s Wearable: We’re all over Duckie Brown’s brightly colored accessories, which make wearing bright colors more accessible to men.  For more adventurous types, we recommend Duckie Brown’s green overcoat, paired with grey and muted denim.  Style tip from Duckie Brown?  Push up the sleeves on a long sleeve shirt–but keep the cuffs showing.

What’s Not Wearable: As we noted at Buckler, underwear as outerwear is just not a good idea.  A turtleneck and beanie combo needs a pair of pants to make it complete.

3 comments February 5th, 2007

Fall 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Buckler

Buckler Fall 2007 Runway
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All

Key Takeaways: Futuristic with a science fiction edge, Andrew Buckler’s Fall 2007 presentation featured crisp, refined lines and a nod to the 80s rock scene.  Buckler showed body conscious cardigans, dress shirts, and jackets along with corsets, wifebeaters, and colorful boxer briefs.

Color Palette:  Key colors included jet black, graphite ebony, darker reds, boyish blues, and bruised purple.

Silhouette: Jackets and dress shirts were lean, with refined lines and a tailored feel.  Pants were cut skinny and exuded a punkish 80s vibe.

Accessories Report: Caps in the style of a British police officer.  Elbow-length gloves, Knee socks, and colorful thin scarves.  Simple silver jewelry with a Rock n’ Roll edge.

What’s Wearable: We’re digging the beautifully tailored jackets, cardigans, and dress shirts.

What’s Not Wearable: 
Underwear as outerwear–corsets and tight underwear don’t belong on the streets.  Uber-skinny pants also pose a fashion challenge for most men.

3 comments February 4th, 2007

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