by John Liu

A: You’re in luck–you don’t need to spend a lot in order to look more mature.  In fact, you can often replicate a designer look at generic prices.  To me, the spirit of “young but mature” rests in taking staples of a man’s wardrobe and putting a contemporary twist on them.  The most common outfit you will see that captures this spirit is the classic t-shirt under the blazer look.  You may also see some guys pushing up the sleeves on blazers.  As for your specific question…

Pants: Ditch the cargo pants.  Those bulky pockets are just a bit too high school.  Instead, try some well-cut khakis in a lighter color.  They’re worth the investment.  I would look into a designer called Save Khaki; I like their cut and casualness. If you’re in New York, you can go to their boutique; otherwise you can find them at online at Barney’s Co-op, Neiman Marcus or Bergdorf Goodman.  And if its prep you want, look no further than a pair of Nantucket Reds; these classics are the very definition of East coast prep.  You can also try Ralph Lauren or J. Crew, which always has some good chinos (and of course, their classic chambray shirt).  Or, if you want something new, you can explore Gant’s Rugger line.  And while we’re on the subject of pants, don’t be afraid to try jeans that aren’t blue.  Grey jeans look great.
   
Shorts: For those hot days, look into some clean cut Bermuda shorts; they’re like cargo pants without the bulky pockets.  Nantucket Reds can be pretty stylish, as seen on Michael Bastian (pictured top right). Also check out what Banana Republic has to offer.  Style tip?  Properly fitting shorts do not fall below the knee.

Tops: You can stick to polo shirts, but I have a feeling that if you look around, every 3rd guy will be sporting a polo.  How to differentiate yourself from these other guys?  Look for polos that deviate from the common styles and brands.  Try investing in some interesting buttondowns; they’ll come in handy for dates too.  Solids and stripes are always a safe bet, but if you feel like being bold, try some checks or plaid.  Whatever you do, leave the collar down; a polo with a popped color isn’t preppy, it’s pretentious.

Shoes: Don’t bash yourself too hard about wearing slip on Vans; they’re actually coming back in style.  Also, classics such as Jack Purcells probably won’t go out of style any time soon, so don’t worry about wearing sneakers every now and then.  You can find some alternatively preppy shoes without breaking the bank though: try some Sperry Top-Sider or L.L. Bean boat shoes.

Blazers/Suits: Also, now that you’re in college, it’s time to look into blazers and possibly a suit if you don’t have one.  You’ll definitely need a well-cut suit for your job interview, so it’s only a matter of time.  For about $500, you can get some pretty good suits at Banana Republic.

A: In order to stand out from the crowd, either dress up or down, but stick with one and do it all the way.  Of course, there is a little bit of wiggle room, but if you want to stand out, just don’t plant yourself right in the middle of the “formality” scale by wearing a structured blazer, dress shirt and dark blue denim.

I think the dress shirt/jeans combo is so popular because guys consider it to be that “in between” look.  They think (incorrectly) that by wearing a button down, they are dressing up, but by wearing jeans, they are also keeping it casual.  Their mistake is thinking that the shirt is the piece of the outfit that defines the formality.  In reality, the pieces of the outfit that define formality are actually the pants and shoes.  You could wear a suit jacket, a dress shirt and a tie, but if you wear shorts, it’s still a casual look.  Or maybe they’re doing it because everyone else is doing it.  Either way, don’t follow their lead. 

As for accessories, the idea here is minimalism: skip the belt.  The pocket square is up to you.  You can wear your watch, but only if it’s subtle. 

If you want to make the look more casual, skip the tie.  Or you can skip the jacket altogether and wear a vest instead—but only if all components of the suit are from the same suit (i.e. don’t wear a medium gray pants and a charcoal vest).  As always, fit is absolutely key.  If your suit doesn’t fit, you’ll look like you’re trying too hard.  Tom Ford (left) does it right, as always.

On the other hand, if you’re going to a place where dancing is central, dress up by dressing down.  I say this more for practicality rather than for style.  Wear jeans, but mix it up by wearing jeans that aren’t blue.  A great pair of gray jeans can go a long way.  Slim chinos, like those by Mason’s (available at Barney’s New York and Douglas Fir), are also a great alternative.  In Milan, you will see men wearing navy chinos instead of jeans. 

Also, don’t be afraid to wear a blazer (roll up the sleeves to casualize it); again, just don’t wear a formal, structured blazer over a button down shirt and blue jeans.  The trend of the moment is a horizontally striped crewneck tee.  The gentleman in the gray jacket (right) has the right idea.

A: We have good news and bad news about your plaid pants.  The good news is that you won’t really have to spend a lot of time putting an outfit together when you wear these pants.  The bad news is that it’s because you won’t have a lot of options.  When pairing shirts with these pants, stick to solid, simple colors.  As always, we would suggest a crisp, white shirt (tucked in).  Shoes should be casual, but don’t wear sneakers with these pants.  Try loafers or Tod’s drivers instead.  Oh, and avoid patterned shirts or jackets, or else you’ll end up looking like an optical illusion. 

Plaid like yours is bold, especially on a dressier piece of clothing.  Last season, Tom Ford had a three-piece plaid suit that was particularly eye catching (shown bottom right).  Then again, is there anything from Tom Ford that isn’t?  He probably could find some way to make what amounts to a Hanes white undershirt fashionable, price it at $400, and it would sell out. 

A: Even though aftershave and cologne can smell the same, they’re two very different products.  Aftershave is meant to condition the skin after shaving, so while it is scented, it contains conditioners to heal your skin after a close shave.  Cologne, on the other hand, is purely for fragrance.  As such, cologne has a much stronger, longer-lasting scent than aftershave.

How much is too much?  While you can splash your face with aftershave, your coworkers will be able to smell you from across the office if you do so with cologne.  Cologne is best applied in small quantities—a dab here and a dab there is enough.

Picking a scent is really a personal process.  We would recommend going scent “window shopping” first to familiarize yourself with the variety of scents out there.    Spray the fragrance on the paper cards provided at the store—that way, you’ll be able to distinguish between the colognes.  (Plus, you’ll keep your wrists and arms scent-free.)  Give your nose a break in between sniffing each fragrance.  And take your time—the process of elimination to find the perfect scent doesn’t need to be done in a day.  

A:  You should be as formal as your bride.  You said that her dress is a full bridal gown, but it isn’t a “crazy formal or elaborate” gown.  Does this mean the dress isn’t down to the floor?  The length of the dress instantly adds (or subtracts, in the case of a short dress) to the formality of the gown. 

If her dress is knee-length, try a blazer over a button-down shirt with wool trousers with dressier leather loafers.  Warning: I wouldn’t suggest pleated khakis and a navy blazer, unless you’re going for the country club look.  Instead, try a medium or dark gray blazer with a white shirt.  You’ll find that a crisp white shirt will really pop beneath that color blazer. 

If her dress is down to the floor, I would say go with a suit but no tie. The key to this look is the shirt collar.  Get a flimsy collar and it will fall down under your jacket lapel and look sloppy.  Keep the look sharp with a firm collar.  GQ explains how to pull off the look here.

In either case, you’ll be wearing a jacket over a button-down, so tuck in your shirt.

You said you want a “relaxed” suit, but I don’t think you mean that.  Relaxed is a term that describes a loose but not baggy fit.  It’s usually associated with jeans.  If that is what you mean, then I apologize.  In that case, try looking at American made suits.  The so called “sack suits” are usually boxier, looser cuts.  The jacket would follow your silhouette, the trouser will feature a wider leg, and so on. 

It’s up to you, but I personally favor a more slim-fitting suit, especially for a no-tie look.  Try some European designers.  I have a Paul Smith London suit and can personally vouch for its fit.
 
A big factor of formality with suits is color.  The darker the color, the more formal the suit.  I would agree with you and stick with a darker suit here.  Moreover, you’re not wearing a tie, which also makes your look less formal, but if you did, I would tell you to wear a skinny (but not TOO skinny) tie.  I would also tell you not to wear a belt.  A lot of people don’t wear belts nowadays, especially with the “shrunken” suit in fashion.  Going beltless is a sleeker look and tends to add an air of informality. The beltless look has become a fashionable look; GQ’s Style Guy (Glenn O’Brien) has written that he never wears belts with his suits. 

Whatever you do, just remember that sophisticated is clean, simple and tailored.  If your clothes are all of those things, you will shine whatever you wear.  Also, before you buy anything, know how things should fit. Certainly, the tailor will help you when if you get a suit, but you should also know yourself how things should fit.  I liken it to buying a car.  Sure, you can go to the dealer and trust everything they say (and if you go to a respectable dealership they probably are honest), but you still want to have prior knowledge.  I strongly recommend reading Details’ Men’s Style Manual.  It will give you a very good sense on what proper fit means and how to really look chic. 

A:  How ironic, as I read your question, I was having tea with a good friend from Knysna, South Africa.  She had never heard of color restrictions on safari–unless you are on a walking safari (in which case your game lodge should inform you of restrictions). 

To be practical, you may want to wear khaki clothes so as not to show dirt and dust and (should the weather be warmer than expected) to deflect some heat.  If you get cold, as you suggest, you may want to look for darker colors, which will hold in the heat.  

In the cities, my friend said to expect colors similar to those worn in Miami - bright and tropical.  Dress in layers, as the temperatures will vary dramatically throughout the day and evening.  It cools down a lot in the evenings, and FYI a lot of buildings aren’t heated.

As for where to find clothes, Orvis online has great travel clothes.  One last tip?  Remember to bring practical shoes and a hat. 

A: 
The ideal shirt length for a guy, whether it’s a button down, a polo, or a t-shirt, is halfway down the zipper (assuming your pants actually fit you). 

If you wear something over the shirt -  a sweater, a vest, a jacket, a blazer – tuck your shirt in, unless it’s a properly fitted t-shirt.

While we’re on the subject of fit, make sure the rest of the shirt fits.  As with jackets, you should fit your shirt based on how it fits on your shoulders.  This is because you can shorten a shirt’s sleeves or length, and you can take it in at the waist, but you can’t change the shoulder (it’s also a comfort thing).  The shoulder seam (the line of the shirt that connects the body of the shirt to the sleeve) should rest in the little gap between that little bump at the end of your collarbone and your arm. 

Style tip: This may all sound a lot, but trust me, if you find a shirt that fits properly in the shoulders, as described above, chances are, the rest will fit accordingly.  The bottom line: focus on the shoulder fit, and you’ll probably be all right.

A:  In general, pale skinned guys should stick to white, charcoal (I include gray and black in this category), navy and maybe some red; tell him to stay away from khaki and other similar earth tones.

I’m going to be forthright with you, though, because I don’t want your husband looking like a fool.  Forget about the wardrobe color palette.  It really shouldn’t be a big factor in determining your husband’s work clothes.  Be the best-dressed man in the office, but do it by wearing suits that are clean, tailored and sophisticated.  Trust me: don’t get caught up in what color looks the best with your husband’s skin.  If he wears a well fitted dark suit (think charcoal, gray and navy), a crisp white shirt, and a complementary tie, he will look fantastic, no matter how pale skinned he is.

The best advice I can give to you is to go to a trusted department store and take the time to figure out what looks good on him.  Find an employee that you think has good style and have him help you mix and match suits/shirts/ties.  Also, go to a really upscale store - they won’t let you leave the store looking bad.  This isn’t some shameless and cliché sales pitch for your nearby Wilkes Bashford; I say this because those kinds of stores don’t want to be associated with poorly dressed guys.  I realize that going to an expensive store is, well, expensive, and not everyone may be able to/willing to pay those prices.  Just remember: you’re not obligated to buy anything, and you will have a great sense of what looks good on your husband after you leave.

On a side note, if your spouse wants to copy a celebrity’s style, make it Gianni Agnelli.  Mr. Agnelli is a sartorial legend and is considered one of the best dressed men in history, which is all the more impressive given the fact that he worked in the conservative world of business (meaning that loud, outlandish suits and such aren’t tolerated).  The picture above is proof.

Style Tip: You can always learn from Mr. Agnelli.  In this picture, check out the impeccable tailoring of his suit (it’s a bespoke, I’m sure), the Italian shoulder, and the crisp white shirt.  The tie is perfect.  It’s the perfect width for the collar width (an often overlooked detail of proportion), and it’s a perfect color – the gray base matches the suit, the white stripes pick up the shirt).  The pocket square is a perfect finishing touch and a perfectly complementary color.

A: 
When I think of what to wear with army green or olive green pants, I usually think of urban chic jackets, like this fantastic one by Balenciaga which you can find at Browns.  Unfortunately, at 840GBP, it’s hardly “affordable.” 

Army Green is still kind of an uncommon color in a man’s wardrobe –that doesn’t mean it’s not very stylish – but because of this, it can easily serve as the focal point of your outfit.  I also think this is why you don’t see many army green colored pants – it’s a bit unusual to have your pants be the focus of your outfit.
   
If you’re brave enough to be different, however, look good doing it.  The most important thing here is that you make sure the rest of your clothes don’t clash.  Your pants will attract the most attention; don’t fight it. Opt for earthy tones here; think cream or off-white, khaki and brown.  You can also try the most versatile color of them all: white.  If the pants have an olive component to them, you can dry dark navy shirt.  As for shoes, I’d recommend wearing some dark brown shoes, preferably in a lace-up style.
   
If your pants are more of a richer dark — as in I’d-think-they-were-black-if-it-wasn’t-sunny dark — you have a few more options.  You can try pairing the rich dark green pants with a medium gray tweed sport coat.  With this sport coat, you could try adding a dark red or maroon cardigan underneath.  Notice I say cardigan and not sweater here: a full red sweater may be overwhelming here, but a cardigan will add just a splash of red beneath your buttoned sport coat. 

Oh, and by the way, if you go to an American university, it seems as if all you need to get girls is talk: like my friend Timothy’s, your clever-sounding British accent will drive the girls here nuts.  Maybe I should have told you all the wrong things and level the playing field here for my fellow Americans.

Style Tip: If you ever are unsure of what color to wear with something, find a color wheel (google image search “color wheel”).  In general, colors that are close to the color in question—or those that are on the opposite side of the color wheel–will go well with it.  Of course, this doesn’t mean you should pair a very loud orange with equally loud yellow just because they sit next to each other.  In general, you want to pick colors (and shades of colors) that complement one another, not those that aggressively compete for attention. As you’ll find, darker colors are easier to complement; this is why most dark colors, such as navy, are so versatile and popular.

Pictured: Polo Ralph Lauren English Wale Corduroy Pants | $98 at Saks Fifth Avenue.